STAY > Miyamaso Takamiya, Zao Onsen Japan (16/20)

Share This Article

There’s a rare comfort at Miyamaso Takamiya—one that hums beneath tatami floors and steams from the ancient volcanic springs of Zao. Arriving at this storied ryokan, you step not just into a place, but into over three centuries of tradition, each timber and lantern casting a hush of ceremony and calm.

Deep snow piles up at the doorstep in winter, creating a silent buffer from the bustle outside, while inside, staff greet guests with the kind of gentle ritual that feels both deeply personal and utterly timeless.

Arriving in the town of Zao Onsen you are immediately hit by the smell of the sulphur which runs in the hot streams through and around the town. This like other ‘onsen towns’ is a destination to relax and soak, but it is also a destination to walk, ski and visit the world famous Zao snow monsters.

AMBIANCE >

The layout is a maze of old-world passageways and hushed salons; the rooms are classic Japanese, tatami floors, a delicate colour palate, mezannine-style, with rooms simply for contemplation. Generous space both in the accomodation but also the comfortable sitting areas.

There is something about this place that immediately makes you wonder are you in a movie. Miyamaso perfectly combines the rich heritage and style elements of Kill Bill’s ‘House of Blue Leaves’ and quirky hospitality and slightly strange aspects of The Grand Hotel Budapest – it is charming, bewildering and a snapshot in time.

There are plenty of sliding screens, and private open-air baths for contemplative soaks gazing out onto Zao’s forests. There are actually four separate onsen baths on the premises — they change gender on different days so that you can experience all of them, all fueled by naturally mineral-rich spring water, famed for its restorative effect on weary limbs.

At dawn and dusk, the scent of cedar mingles with soft chirrups from the shrine next door, or of people climbing the many steps that lead up and through the Tori Omotesando Gate onward up the hill to the Sukawa Onsen Shrine.

EAT >

Dining at Miyamaso Takamiya is a delicate, seasonal odyssey. The restaurant produces a Japanese breakfasts complete with personal morning message, and a changing kaiseki dinner that really shines — each dish carefully plated, composed of Yamagata-grown vegetables, fresh river fish, local wagyu, and subtly fragrant rice. The staff’s warmth infuses every meal, tailoring the experience to guest preferences with wordless ease.

It’s not flashy hospitality, but sincere, quiet, and seamless—making the stay feel less like a transaction and more like returning to your Japanese country home in the snow.

CONCLUSION >

Location is both central and atmospheric: steps from the main ski lifts, but enveloped by the mists and magic of Zao’s famous snow monsters and temples. Guests can amble out to explore roped walks and lantern-lit bars, yet most find themselves drifting back to the ryokan—its traditions, baths, and hearty cuisine urging rest and renewal. Miyamaso Takamiya suits couples and seekers of old-world Japan, those who want to trade the ordinary for the rare and the restorative.

***

click on the images below to open a lightbox