EAT > Sushi M, Tokyo

It was back in January 2023 and we were returning from Japan and we bumped into the incredibly talented Nicky Reimer chef of Bellota Restaurant on our flight home, sharing stories of food and travel, I asked her what was the best food experience you had in Japan she did not hesitate and said immediately “Sushi-M” and it was at that point I started to plan the next trip to Japan to ensure that we included a visit to this restaurant.

Sushi M is an intimate 12 seat restaurant closely pairing food and wine, they focus on finding the freshest ingredients from across the country to showcase the craftsmanship of Japan’s producers and also to match that food with fine wine and artisanal sake.

Each nigiri is carefully made and placed in front of you with a nod a wink and perhaps a “mmm yum”. Each morsel placed in your mouth is remarkable and the matching wines are also quite exceptional (more on this).

Our first course started with a remarkable sparkling sake, served in a beautiful flute (I do have a thing about fine glassware). Arriving under a glass ‘cloche’ was a smokey ‘hairy crab’ a Japanese delicacy prepared with caviar it was subtle and delicious a perfect match for the wine.

The next wine was a Bernard Magrez Château Pape Clement a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (57%), Semillon (39%) and Muscadelle (4%) and a perfect match for the next two delicious pieces of nigiri (the first was horse mackerel not sure on the second)

The next wine was Chardonnay from Burgundy and a very good one Blain-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2000 (I couldn’t find reviews of the 2000 online so this is review by Burghound of the 2020).

For the next course Dom Perignon 2013 was matched to an oyster nigiri that was creamy and the perfect accompaniment. Oysters and Champagne go together!

The next was a fine artisanal Japanese sake which was served with blowfish for me this was the only dish that lacked something, maybe I am just not getting the thrill out of eating a deadly poisonous fish but it was fine just not amazing. The sake however was quite excellent.

We move to red wine with a Burgundy from Domaine Ponsot – Clos de la Roche which was paired with three tuna nigiri that showcased the different flavour profile from the fatty tuna. I have never had such good nigiri amazing.

From here it was on to Cabernet Merlot with a lovely wine Château Ducru Beaucaillou from Bordeaux to match the beef wagyu, sublime.

A palate refresh with a sensational von Buhl Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese (1989 vintage) served with a delicious mandarin ice made in front of us.

There were three more amazing pieces of sushi, each an incredible flavour and texture combination.

This meal was obviously quite over the top by normal standards and it was a special occasion for us but WOW Sushi M is an incredible experience. The food and wine were perfectly paired and the evening a delight.