WINE > Wantirna Estate, Amelia 2016 94/100

Wantirna is a suburb at the edge of Melbourne’s sprawling metropolis. As you drive out towards the Dandenong Ranges, one moment it is traffic lights and shopping strips, the next quiet country streets and the idyllic 10 acres that make up Wantirna Estate. Set amongst the golf courses and nature reserves that follow the path of the Dandenong Creek, Wantirna is a family vineyard established by Reg and Tina Egan in 1963.

The winery grows Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a little Merlot. They make only four wines each a stella rendition of the varietal and typical of the magic of cool climate lower Yarra Valley though in truth this area is probably well beyond the boundary most would include when referring to the Yarra Valley wine region.

It is a family business, Reg who started as a lawyer was the original winemaker and he in turn handed that to his daughter Maryann who built her skills working in France both in Burgundy and Bordeaux something that comes through in the structure and elegance of the wines.

The next generation of the family are all named on the bottles; Isabella (the Chardonnay), Lilly (the Pinot Noir), Amelia (Cabernet Merlot) and Hannah (Cabernet Franc Merlot) and if you are lucky enough to visit for one of the annual open days you might just get to meet one of Reg’s granddaughters serving you a wine with their name on it.

The labels on the bottles are drawn by famous Australian cartoonist Michael Leunig a family friend who based his illustrations on what he knew and was told about each of the girls by Reg.

Reg thought that the vineyard would be an experimental site and that he would have to move to another location as the suburbs continued to spread.  So, he planted a bit of a fruit salad to see what performed best – the classics like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But also, Grenache, Pedro Ximenes, Shiraz, Crouchon, Barbara and Malbec. As the vines produced grapes, he gradually assessed their performance and replaced them with the varieties that did well in the cool climate.”

Maryann Egan

VINEYARD

With only ten acres it is very much a boutique vineyard and there is no room for non performing grapes, thus the focus on vines that have prospered in the traditionally cooler climate. The pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and recently petit verdot each have generated delicate fragrant wines that showcase the subtle tones of the fruit and provide structure and balance.

The 2016 harvest was exceptionally early (in February) but following a very early budburst and flowering in October, the grapes were ready. Handpicked, hand plunged and made in small open fermenters.

The blend was 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot/Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. It then goes into barrels which are about 30% new French oak.

“There’s always something comforting about this wine. It’s gentle. Never forced. A burst of cassis, dried herbs, cedar and tobacco. It’s medium-bodied, elegant with fine, chalky tannins and enough succulence to enjoy it in its youth yet will age gracefully.”
95 Points

Jane Faulkner, Halliday’s Wine Companion, 18th June 2021

TASTING

Violet and cigar box perfume, red and black fruits, pencils and vanilla. Medium-bodied, fleshy but gentle tannin, deep flavour delivered with a light touch, fine long finish, poise and elegant feel from start to finish. Classic. Beautiful Cabernet. 95 points. “

Gary Walsh, The Wine Front October 2018

I have had this wine in my cellar for the last six years, collecting it on one of the lovely visits to Wantirna Estate when I had a great chance to talk to Maryann, Reg and even grand daughters who also provided delicious chicken sandwiches.

Choosing to take it to enjoy at the amazing IDES restaurant in Collingwood with a small group of friends was an excellent opportunity to see how the wine is holding up and how well it accompanied the food and stood up to other wines in the bracket.

The fragrant nose was still just as potent, spice, fruit and vanilla all right from the first scent. On the palate the wine has excellent length and remains very well balanced, it is still an elegant gentle wine that reminds you that yes this is Cabernet but no it doesn’t have to smash you with power.

There is still plenty of development in this wine and I will keep the ones I have left in the cellar for a couple more years to see how they continue to develop.

EAT > IDES, Melbourne