DRINK > Myrtle Wine Bar

There is something wonderfully comfortable about entering into Myrtle Wine Bar on Warburton Lane off Little Bourke Street. It is so Melbourne, down a lane, which is off another lane, in an old two story redbrick warehouse space that started as a blacksmith (but more recently was a Spanish restaurant).

It could be the selection of vinyl lying next to the turntable on the bar, it could be the proximity of bar and kitchen, this operation is led by chef Chris Smith and partner Kirsty McAteer who both extremely friendly and helpful.

THE WINE

There are 18 (all Australian) wines available by the glass with a few sparkling, five whites, two rose and six reds, with a couple of sweet wines to finish with. The prices are all accessible most wines on offer are $16-18 per glass. There is a more extensive list of wines available by the bottle too, again all of them are Australian offerings and largely from South Australia.

Smith & McAteer are quite knowledgeable about the range of wines they are offering and they are also happy to jump in and make suggestions that might best suit your palate and your wallet.

When it comes to the glassware, the stems used are functional and large enough to let the wine express itself, but they only have limited premium stemware for bottle wine.

PREMIUM OFFERINGS

There are no premium wines available by the glass under Coravin, or by the bottle, which is probably my only reservation. Amongst the premium wines on the list the stand outs were all a little predictable, Penfolds ‘St Henri’ Shiraz ($200), Penfolds ‘Bin 789 RWT’ Shiraz ($285), Craiglee Shiraz ($140) – all great wines but.

I would have loved to have seen a single vineyard wine from the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula or the Bellarine. The range of Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Cabernet, Merlot and Grenache was all limited – some ok offerings just no stand outs.

THE FOOD

The food offerings are not just snacks to go with wine, the offerings here are serious restaurant selection with a heavy emphasis on indigenous ingredients and creating mouth watering flavours. Think about a sardine finger with whipped Murray Valley cod roe or Wattleseed crusted lamb blade, carrot and almond whip with a red wine braised shallot.

If you are just looking for that right treat to go with an excellent glass of wine there is Chicken Liver Parfait, Chip Shop potato cakes (with Yarra Valley Salmon Roe, cultured cream and chives) and of course home made macadamia and rosemary focaccia with whipped ricotta and burnt honey.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Arriving on a cold winter Wednesday afternoon it was surprisingly busy at Myrtle and it was clear people were loving the food and drinks on offer. It was great to be immediately served water with the wine too, no extra upsell on premium sparkling water. The high ceilings does mean that it can feel a little chilly (would love to see a fireplace in there but I guess that is asking a bit much!) and the bare walls and blacksmith heritage are a bit stark. But somehow it all feels good cosy (without being warm) the friendly team, the good smells from the kitchen, the vinyl tunes on the record player… yes I will be back and next time I want the sardines!

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