DRINK > Old Palm Liquour, East Brunswick (15/20)

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The northern end of East Brunswick’s Lygon Street is now a busy bar and dining district. It is an area where you can stumble left or right into a smart bar that serves good food. Old Palm Liquor is one of these places that is full from the front bar to the large back garden bar with regulars who come to drink or eat or both.

AMBIANCE >

The moment you step into Old Palm Liquor, you’re enveloped in a warm, 70s-inspired interior with heavy timber elements and brown-beige hues that create an inviting colonial edge—an echo of co-owner Almay Jordaan’s South African upbringing. Mood lighting, comfortable seating, and whirring ceiling fans complement the proliferation of potted plants, creating one of Melbourne’s most appealing bar atmospheres. The open kitchen, centered around a wood-burning parilla grill, which adds both visual drama and aromatic smoky allure to the space.

FOOD >

The menu draws inspiration from Jordaan’s heritage growing up on the Western Cape, where braai (coal-fired barbecuing) was a staple. Signature dishes include beef tartare flavored like biltong, grilled rockling with Cape Malay spices, and charred flatbreads served with garlicky labne. Recent standouts include Golden beet with oyster mushroom, chervil and ‘sour cream,’ and the impressive Otway pork chop with soubise, charred daikon, and pickled apricots. While South African influences are evident, this is no traditional restaurant—Jordaan’s creative impulses are given free rein.

DRINK >

There is plenty of choice when it comes to drinks, Old Palm Liquor boasts a curated wine list showcasing over 1,400 minimal-intervention wines from around the world. This impressive collection, a decade in the making, features rare and important bottles alongside much more approachable options. The focus is decidedly on biodynamic and natural wines, with approximately 20 options available by the glass. From French classics to Georgian curiosities, South African specialties to Japanese surprises, the cellar is truly a global journey.

SERVICE >

The service team, led by co-owner Marc Banytis (formerly of Neighbourhood Wine and Sydney’s ground-breaking The Wine Library), offer friendly guidance through what might otherwise be a bafflingly unfamiliar wine list. The service strikes that perfect Melbourne balance—attentive without being intrusive, knowledgeable without pretension.

CONCLUSION >

Old Palm Liquor represents a natural evolution for co-owners Simon Denman, Almay Jordaan, and Marc Banytis, who also operate the beloved Neighbourhood Wine. While there are unavoidable parallels between the venues (including serious vinyl collections and sliding glass doors sheltering bottles), Old Palm Liquor has established its own distinct identity. In a neighborhood that hosts notable establishments like Teller (housed in a heritage bank building), Kura Robata & Sake, and The Moldy Fig, Old Palm Liquor shines as a destination venue that perfectly captures Brunswick’s relaxed yet sophisticated culinary spirit.