EAT > Gimlet, Melbourne (18/20)

“Let’s grab a drink at Gimlet and figure it out” that is the start of an excellent night out in Melbourne. Famed for its cocktails as well as the food there is a wonderful deco 1920s style to a place that launched in 2020 just before the pandemic started and has since become a Flinders Lane institution.

Chef Andrew McConnell has a track record of creating the kind of hospitality venue that stands the test of time, more than fashionable his venues are the perfect mix of style, sophistication, perfect service and delicious original food. From Cumulus Inc. to Cutler & Co, Marion Wine Bar, Meatsmith, Supernormal, Apollo Inn and the latest venture Bar Miette. Each venue is very different, each a classic place that makes a night out special. For many people Gimlet (at Cavendish House) is the best of the best.

So it turned out on a Tuesday night without a plan I wondered up to Flinders Lane thinking why not start with a Martini at Gimlet and see where we go… They are famed for their Martini’s after all. Arriving all the tables and bar seating was full but they grabbed my number (checked my name and details were already in the system, they were) and promised to text me when my table was ready say 45 minutes. Just long enough to have that cocktail at Apollo Inn instead (also owned by Andrew McConnell and Trader House) have the Martini there (excellent dirty martini, served with two olives) and return to Gimlet for dinner.

FOOD >

The food on offer at Gimlet that pays homage to European bistro classics while also incorporating contemporary Australian influences. There is heaps of flavour and nothing disappoints but for me the standout dishes include:

• Wood-roasted garfish in a rich caviar sauce
• The Caesar Salad prepared table side for an indulgent weekend lunch
• Calamarata pasta with prawns in a creamy tomato-orange Américaine sauce
• Gippsland strip steak with spring garlic and salsa verde
• Dry-aged Muscovy duck breast with Corella pear and liquorice

We sat down for dinner 40 minutes later we started with the Gnocco Fritto served with bresaola and parmesan (12 each) these are delicious flavour explosions but very small (not much larger than a 20c piece) and to my mind the ones at Emilia are much better value… but take the price out of the equation and these were fab.

We followed up with a raw dish of tuna, scallop, sea bream and smoked creme fraiche (38) and for mains we shared the dry aged muscovy duck served with candied walnut and orange (120) french fries (12) and a house salad (16).

For desert (which we did not need but we had anyway) we again shared the buerre bosc pear with pecan and vanilla gelato (22) and the caramelised brioche with almond milk and meyer lemon (24). The pear was a little disappointing not bad but perhaps it was because the caramelised brioche was so amazingly good that my review feels a little harsh. Together it was clear the brioche was the winner by a clear margin, but if you were in the mood for pear I know it would be lovely.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Image Credit | The Moat & Crispy Almanak

WINE >

The wine list is extensive as you would expect from a venue of this calibre with over 450 different bottles on offer curated by head sommelier Anthony Pieri and the prices are equally extensive. We started with a couple of glasses of Chablis, in this case the Laroche Saint Martin 2022 (at 28 per glass) and then settled on a bottle of Gamay from the Burgundy region which was excellent and it was the best option (in the pinot/gamay section) without spending > $220 per bottle.

CONCLUSION >

While Gimlet certainly falls into the “special occasion” category with its pricing, the quality of food, the ambiance, and the excellent service all go to justifying the cost. Whether you opt for a full multi-course dinner or simply enjoy cocktails and bar snacks, (if you arrive after 10pm you have access to the supper menu which includes one of Melbournes very best cheeseburgers $28).

Gimlet at Cavendish House is a beautiful room and offers a memorable dining experience that captures the essence of Melbourne’s vibrant culinary scene.
Food 4.5/5, Service 4.5/5, Wine 4.5/5, Room 4.5/5 = 18/20.

---