DRINK Review > Bobbie Peels, North Melbourne (15/20)

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Tucked away above Kirk’s Wine Bar on Hardware Lane in Melbourne’s CBD, French Saloon offers a sophisticated dining experience that beautifully balances Parisian bistro charm with contemporary Australian flair. The restaurant’s discreet entrance and staircase lead to an elegant space that feels like a well-kept secret among Melbourne’s discerning diners.

AMBIANCE >

Upon entering French Saloon, you’re immediately struck by the refined yet unpretentious atmosphere. High ceilings, white walls, and large windows flooding the space with natural light create an airy, elegant setting. The polished wooden floors, marble bar, and classic bistro furniture evoke a timeless European sensibility, while thoughtful modern touches keep the space feeling fresh and relevant. The restaurant’s balcony offers a delightful outdoor dining option with views of the bustling laneway below.

Melbourne has some outstanding French dining options from the perennial France Soir to Bistro Gitane and L’otel Gitane (by the family Reymond), the new Maison Batard (worthy of its own review) and even Bistro Guiame in the Crown complex offers excellent classic French. However with all that competition, The French Saloon is something a little bit special

It was our first time back at French Saloon, (the restaurant closed during COVID and had a 3 year hiatus used only for functions) but it was so familiar to walk back into the wonderful airy room at the top of the stairs off Hardware Lane.

FOOD >

Head chef Luke Fraser, working alongside co-owner and celebrated chef Ian Curley, delivers a menu that honors classic French techniques while embracing seasonal Australian produce. The charcuterie selection is exceptional, featuring house-made terrines and pâtés that showcase meticulous attention to detail. Standout dishes include the steak tartare with traditional accompaniments – perfectly balanced and executed with precision – and the duck confit with crispy skin and meltingly tender meat. Seafood shines in dishes like the pan-seared John Dory with brown butter and capers, demonstrating the kitchen’s commitment to simple yet impeccable preparation. The dessert menu features classics like crème brûlée with the perfect crack-worthy caramelised top and a decadent chocolate soufflé that arrives impressively risen and light.

It was an after work week night diner so we were just after something classic Steak Frite (with a delicious red wine sauce) for me and John Dory for Angie and both were complimented perfectly with a lovely green salad.

DRINK >

The wine list is a carefully curated selection that leans heavily toward French regions but doesn’t neglect excellent Australian producers. Not surprising given the restaurant is part of the European Group (which includes The European, City Wine Store, Melbourne Supper Club, Siglo, Kafenion, Kirks Wine Bar and Butchers Diner). On the night we were there the sommelier demonstrated impressive knowledge of the list and suggested a thoughtful pairing. The bar also excels at classic cocktails, with a particularly noteworthy Martini and Negroni.

SERVICE >

Staff strike that perfect balance between professional and personable, demonstrating comprehensive knowledge of both the menu and wine list without ever feeling stuffy. Timing between courses is well-paced, and special requests are accommodated with grace

CONCLUSION >

I am won over by the style as well as the substance, I love the rough floors and beautifully ironed table linen clothes, the small outside balcony is often busy early in summer and warmer evenings and they serve wines in excellent and appropriate glassware.

The French Saloon delivers a dining experience that feels special without being pretentious. Its combination of refined French cuisine, elegant ambiance, and attentive service makes it a standout destination in Melbourne’s competitive dining scene. Whether for a long business lunch, romantic dinner, or special celebration, French Saloon offers a consistently excellent experience that justifies its place among the city’s finest restaurants.