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Its the beginning of winter and for me that always means a range of delicious foods come onto the menu. It is a time to enjoy anything with truffle, slow cooked meats, rich pate, sharp smelly cheese, and warm soups.
And being a pinot-phile I am drawn to drinking Pinot Noir over any other varietal, so when we were out to explore a new Melbourne restaurant No. 100 on Flinders Lane (more on that coming soon) and looking at the wine list there were not a lot of choices in the Pinot department.
The Chatto Bird Pinot Noir 2021 ($160) sat between the Prossimo Pinot Noir 2022 ($85) from Mornington Peninsula and the Daniel Bouland ‘Morgan Corcelette’ Gamay from Beaujolais ($130) on the wine list.
I have had Chatto wines before and had read a bit about Jim Chatto but the ‘Bird Single Vineyard’ was a new one for me to try and thus to review and I a really glad I did order it because it was delicious.
WINE MAKER
Jim Chatto has been making wine for over 25 years his early years were spent in the Hunter Valley where after he finished studying winemaking. He worked at a number of wineries in the Hunter region over the next few years in 1998 he spent some time working as as winemaker at Rosevears Estate (which is in the Tamar Valley of Tasmania, and was part of Tamar Ridge – owned by Brown Brothers) where he developed a love and deep appreciation of Tasmanian Pinot Noir while he was there he also fell in love with a Tasmanian girl called Daisy but that is another story.
Back in the Hunter Jim Chatto had produced over 20 vintages for various wineries before in 2013 being appointed Chief Winemaker for McWilliams Wines (the makers of Mount Pleasant). In 2017 Jim expanded the role also taking on the role of Chief Winemaker for Kreglinger/Pipers Brook in North Eastern Tasmania.
So while Jim still overseas the entire McWilliams group’s wine making, his passion is on his own wine label Chatto. Originally launched in 2000 the Chatto label is focused on a love of Tasmanian Pinot Noir. It took seven years to find the ideal site and in 2007 planting began at the Isle vineyard in Huon Valley, Glaziers Bay. The first fruit was picked in 2012 and first bottle released in 2013.
Jim also spent most of 2019 living and working a vintage in Burgundy and while there he got to work with fellow Australian Jane Eyre and that led to accessing two barrels of Premier Cru Burgundy from Savigny-lse-Beaune which Jim made and subsequently released. That year Jim was also recognised as the Gourmet Traveller Winemaker of the Year (for 2019).
Today the Chatto Isle Vineyard remains the flagship pinot noir retailing at $100 per bottle it sells out on mailing list order well ahead of its annual release. Last year Dave Brookes rated the 2021 release wine 97/100 points for the Halliday Wine Companion.
THE BIRD VINEYARD
While the Bird Vineyard is not at the same ethereal heights as the Isle Vineyard it is definitely no slouch – this is a fine pinot noire getting 92-94 points from a range of wine reviewers.
The Bird Vineyard was planned by Tasmanian wine pioneer (and founder of Pipers Brook) Dr Andrew Pirie AM in 1998. The vineyard is in the Pipers River region in the north east of Tasmania and remains part of the Pipers Brook / Kreglinger estate. The pinot noir is a 114 clone.
“A medley of black and red cherries and plums is spiked with a herbal edge on the nose. Sweet spices slowly emerge. This is a handsomely-styled pinot, its core of fruit has depth and presence. In its youth, it’s compact and needs time for layers to unfurl. There’s power and warmth to the core.”
Gabrielle Poy, The Real Review
TASTING NOTES
SIGHT
Clear & Bright with good viscosity.
24/25
NOSE
Lovely aroma, a good funk that immediately tells you this is a Tasmanian Pinot. True to the varietal with no faults and a lingering intensity
23/25
PALATE
Rich and complex with excellent fruit and length, not overly concentrated.
23/25
FINISH
Excellent balance between the acid and the fruit, nicely integrated wine with a long after taste.
23/25
The nose starts with a true funk of mushrooms and wet leaves (its a pleasing aroma, not an unpleasant rot) on the palate the fruit has structure and depth, there are hints of of plum and cherries. There is a lovely balance between the spice, delicate tannins and a fine acidity which creates depth and structure with a long finish. 93/100 points.
Now I am on the list for the 2024 release of the ‘Isle Vineyard’ and I can’t wait!
FACTS
Grape | Pinot Noir 100%
Oak | –
Seal | Screw Cap
Production | –
pH | –
Acidity | –
Alcohol | 14% ABV
Residual Sugar | –
Drink By | 2028
Tasting Date | June 2023
Price | $65 at launch now $79 AUD
REVIEWS AND AWARDS
- 93/100 Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
- 92/100 Gabrielle Poy, The Real Review
- 94/100 Dave Brooks, Haliday Wine Companion
- 93/100 Crispy Blackall, Almanak Magazine
LINKS
- https://www.australianwine.com/en-AU/our-makers/jim-chatto
- https://www.chattowines.com/
- https://www.therealreview.com/wineries/4dnn8y5xvxj2/
