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CONTENTS
The Almanak Guide to Syracuse is now available in print from the blurb store print its just $13 USD plus shipping for 40 pages of full colour – click here. When you are finished we have published all of our recommended places in Google Maps so its easy for you to find your way around.
There is no question that Sicily has been discovered by global travellers looking to experience the rich and complicated heritage, meet the lovely people, eat delicious food, drink amazing wine, visit world heritage sites and swim in some of the most amazing beaches. As a result it seems that Palermo, Noto, Taormina and Syracuse are the destinations on everybody’s list. But when you get there information on where to eat, drink, shop, sleep and swim is sometimes patchy. So in this Almanak pocket guide we visit the city of Syracuse (Siracusa) and in particular the beautiful old island town of Ortygia (which is connected to the peninsula by two short bridges), to give you our view on the very best.
GETTING THERE
There are two major airports in Sicily, Palermo and Catania. Most people travelling to Taormina or Syracuse fly into Catania which is about one hours drive (64 kms). Alternatively there if you are travelling by car you can catch the ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina and then drive from Messina to Syracuse which will take a little over 2 hours (164 kms).
ARCHITECTURE AND HISTORY
Syracuse dates back to the 13th century BC, and you can still see some vestiges of the Byzantine era as you wander the streets and visit the historic sites. Up at the Necropolis of Pantalica you will find more than 5,000 tombs cut into the rock face many dating back to the 13th century. Much of the city of Syracuse was built by Greeks from Corinth (Corinthians) in the 8th century and was described by the Roman statesman Ciscero as “the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all“.
The township of Ortygia is over 2500 years old and it remains rich with a mix of Greek, Roman and Medieval Norman architecture in its majestic buildings and historic ruins, it is no wonder the town is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The narrow laneways of the island town criss-cross back and forth, it feels like you could get lost at any turn but given the island is just over one kilometre long and about 500 meters wide, that is very unlikely.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Cathedral of Syracuse
The centre of Ortygia features a grand Piazza with a beautiful Duomo both excellent examples of how the town has changed over time. The Duomo is jointly known as the location of the Cathedral of Syracuse and also as the Temple of Athena because the original greek temple still resides inside the Cathedral. The temple of Athena was built circa 480 BC by the Greek Leader Gelon, who ruled Syracuse at that time. That site was also the location of a temple dating back to the 8th century BC so it holds a rich history of the wealth and power associated with Syracuse rulers over the generations. Also on the square is the beautifully symmetrical Baroque Palazzo Beneventano and the baroque roman catholic church of Santa Lucia, the town’s patron saint, which was rebuilt in 1695 after the original church and monastery were destroyed by the 1693 Sicily earthquake.
Temple of Apollo
The Temple of Apollo dates back to the 6th century BC with the site being one of the most ancient Doric temples in Sicily, it under went numerous transformations following the persecution of the pagans in the late Roman Empire, it then became a Byzantine church, then an Islamic mosque during the Emirate of Sicily. The Normans defeated the Islamic Saracens and reconsecrated it as the church of the saviour. When the Spanish arrived they converted the building into barracks and houses. Today the historic ruins are carefully maintained and you can walk around the outside. It is very close to the outdoor market so its easy to visit both at the same time.
Roman Ampitheatre
The Roman Amphitheatre was built in the 4th century BC for gladiatorial contests it is 140 metres long by 119 metres wide. The tunnel passage below was used for animals and gladiators to enter the arena, above there was seating including covered walkways that ran around the entire arena. On the other side of the park (and on the same entrance ticket) you will find the Greek Theatre.
Greek Theatre
Greek Theatre which was built in the 5th century BC, it was a place for the plays and performances of the time. It was first built in the 5th century BC, rebuilt in the 3rd century BC and renovated again in the Roman period. Today, it is a part of the Unesco World Heritage Site and you can see a more modern concert performed at the same site on the seats that are built over the original stone, but make sure you rent a cushion as the seats are quite hard!
Ortygia Jewish Ritual Bath House
Ortygia’s Jewish Ritual Baths or Mikveh are the oldest in Europe, in the 15th century there were many Jewish communities thriving all over Sicily leading up to the period of rule under the Spanish King Ferdinand (the Catholic) who expelled (or executed) the Jewish people if they failed to convert to Catholicism. That rich heritage adds to all the other cultures that make Sicily so interesting today. The Ortygia Mikveh is under the Residenza Alla Giudecca Hotel and you can organise a tour through the hotel. The fresh water spring that flows under Ortygia feeds into the bath house which is at the bottom of a narrow rock staircase.
Castello Maniace
The Castello Maniace is a citadel and castle located at the far end of Ortygia, it was constructed between 1232 and 1240 by the Emperor Frederick II. The castle was surrounded by a moat and of course the sea walls, it has a large restored hall and well worth a walk through. Over the years after Frederick II it was home to King Peter III of Aragon, numerous Sicilian Queens and in the 15th century it became a prison.
WHERE TO EAT
Good food and Italy go hand in hand and when it comes to Sicily there is a delicious range of local dishes that you will often find in the numerous restaurants that line the streets and laneways. The hard part is selecting where you are going to eat with so many amazing places to choose from, we have that a bit easier for you with our pick below.
1. Chiodo Showroom con Cucina
Hidden in a courtyard off Via Roma you will find Chiodo, which is part store, part wine bar, part restaurant. On a hot day the shade is a blessing and with an excellent range of local wines available by the glass or the bottle, so you can quench the thirst and rest up after a busy morning visiting the sights. The food is rustic and unpretentious, delicious flavours trump the simple presentation and you sit back and smile.
Via Roma, 15, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
https://www.instagram.com/chiodo_showroomconcucina/
+39 3401 193 875
2. Cortile Spirito Santo
One of the most outstanding restaurants in Syracuse, Cortile Spirito Santo is hidden away behind the Maniace Castle and it features a private courtyard that faces the Spirito Santo Church. You can start with a drink in court yard (they often have live jazz playing) and then venture into the restaurant.
The degustation tasting menu is available in five courses of fish, meat or vegetarian options (range from €80-120) or alternatively the six course ‘Cortile tasting menu’ with the best meat and fish dishes (€140).
As you would expect for a restaurant of this calibre there is an exceptional wine list and the sommelier is on hand to help you find your way to the perfect bottle.
Via Salomone, 21, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
http://www.cortilespiritosanto.com/
+39 9311 815 404
3. Regina Lucia
Located right on the piazza there is no better place to watch the passeggiata (the evening walk) as locals and tourists make their way through the streets most end up in the beautiful square that is even more beautiful at night. Sit outside on a balmy evening and you will likely also be able to enjoy some tunes from the buskers. But all of that comes before you consider the food which is excellent. Chef’s Salvo Calleri and Roberta Gallo have created a tasting menu of 5, 6 or 7 special dishes (depending how hungry you are feeling) that range from €70 – €90 per head.
As you would expect there are delicious antipasti, pasta, meat and fish courses as well as some remarkable deserts – Orange cake with ricotta cheese and nero d’avola wine reduction – YUM!!! And if that just sounds like way too much food, you can also choose a la carte.
The wine list is extensive with a huge range of Sicilian wines, some excellent Italian red and whites (the range of Barolo is worth reviewing) and numerous wines from France (the Champagne list is also massive) a few from Spain and Chile. Mark up on the wines was modest.
piazza Duomo 6, Ortigia, Syracuse, 96100, Italy
https://www.reginaluciaristorante.com
+39 0931 22509
WHERE TO DRINK
1. Fratelli Burgio
Fratelli Burgio is a cocktail bar that overlooks the marina and port, the owners have also run the nearby local Salumeria (of the same name) for over three generations so you know that they no a lot about not compromising on quality – it also makes a great place for lunch. But here at the bar on port the story is all about cocktails and why not, its the perfect place watch the sunset.
Piazza Cesare Battisti, 4, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
http://www.fratelliburgio.com/
+39 0931 60069
2. Boats
Boats is a smart cocktail bar that overlooks the Temple of Apollo, the nautical theme flows through to some of the drinks and there is a range of smart cocktails that will get the night started. They also have a very smart menu from delicious tapas like bar snacks to full meals – this is a destination venue and you might end up spending the whole night here.
Via dell’Apollonion, 5, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
https://boats.business.site/
+39 3288 818373
3. Colapesce
At the top of the stairs just above the Cala Rosa Beach where locals go to swim on a hot day (see below) you will find Colapesce a smart restaurant that is also the perfect place for an Aperol Spritz after a cooling swim.
9, Lungomare d’Ortigia, 8, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
http://colapesce.info/
+39 09311 854989
4. Wine Shop
If you want to drink wine then this is a great choice to settle in for a glass or a bottle with a very good range of predominately Sicilian and Italian wines there is something for almost every palate. They also have great snack food so you can sit outside and watch the people and boats as you snack and sip.
Via Savoia, 2, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
https://glovoapp.com/it/it/siracusa/wine-shop-src/
+39 09311 856459
5. Barcollo
If you are looking for something a feels lush and indulgent, then Barcollo might be just the place for you with plush furniture, smart cocktails and exquisite nibbles it is perfect here at the beginning of the night or have a night cap at the end – maybe both?
Piazza Cesare Battisti,6/8, Syracuse, Italy
https://www.facebook.com/barcollosiracusa/
+39 09312 4580
WHERE TO SLEEP
1. Grand Hotel Des Ètrangers
A historical palace built in 1895, it became the preferred lodging for those wishing to visit Sicily on their grand tour of Europe. The ‘Luxury Properties Group’ undertook a significant restoration in 2003
retaining the authentic aspects of the building but creating a luxurious hotel with a perfect balance between tradition and modernity. Each space in the hotel is a littel different, but everywhere there is a sense of peace and luxury. The roof top Clou restaurant and lounge bar have sweeping views around from the Port to the Castle and there is an excellent outdoor roof terrace to watch the sunset.
Breakfast is an absolute treat not just for the food but also the incredibly attentive team who go out of their way to make the stay special.
Passeggio Aretusa, 12, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
http://www.desetrangers.com/
+39 09312 1543
2. Re Federico Boutique Hotel
The Re Federico is a small hotel of suites spanning over three floors in a historic building dating back to 1770. It is located in the Jewish quarter of Giudecca, which some describe as the historic heart of the city of Syracuse. It is an extremely picturesque neighborhood streets, a few steps from the sea and the splendid Piazza Duomo.
Each super stylish apartment has its own space (there are only 6 suites) including living and dining rooms, some with sofa beds and private terraces, others with full kitchen – this is a place to spoil yourself.
Via Larga, 54, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
https://www.refederico.com
+39 0931 68527
3. Residence Hotel Alla Giudecca
The Residence Hotel “Alla Giudecca” is located in the historic center of Ortygia island, in the heart of the Jewish Quarter, next to the next to the Forte Vigliena and the small stone beach ‘Spiaggia Diana nel Forte’ where each year the council builds a scaffold platform so that locals and visitors can swim.
The hotel is a building with a remarkable history, built above Ortygia Mikveh, the Jewish bath house built in the 15th century, today it is believed to be the oldest remaining Jewish ritual bath house in Europe. The building built around courtyards that have retained their Arabic architecture from the period when the Moors ruled Sicily.
The suites are all around 70m2 and have ensuite and the superior suites having a balcony that looks out to the sea.
Via Giovanni Battista Alagona, 52, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy
http://www.allagiudecca.it/en
+39 09312 2255
WHERE TO SWIM
Varco 23 (venti3)
Varco 23 is about 15 minutes drive from Ortygia situated in the Plemmirio marine reserve so the fish are plentiful and its a lovely place to snorkel. Its also a great place on a hot day to enjoy the beach club and have crystal clear water to swim. No sand here as the beach is built on rocks and the sun recliners and umbrellas sit on decks but it is not hardship, with an excellent waiter service and good restaurant when you are ready for lunch its a great option.
Str. Capo Murro di Porco, 192, 96100 Plemmirio SR, Italy
https://www.varco23.it
+39 33195 66696
Lido Beach Agua
Lido Beach Agua is a bit of drive (40 mins) from Ortygia to Noto, but it is totally worth it for the fine golden sand and crystal clear water. Here you will find a smart restaurant and casual dining, arrive before lunch and you are also likely to find complimentary parking but its a big beach club and it does fill up.
Contrada Reitani, 96017 Noto SR, Italy
https://www.aguabeach.it/
+39 0931 841684
