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Editors Note (25/8/24): We are saddened to hear the recent media reports and claims about Swillhouse venues. The accusations are extremely disturbing. As a result we are removing the review rating we gave for the venue.
Finding Alberto’s takes a little confidence, down a back alley, a lane off another lane, in what was once a very seedy part corner of city where the Sydney CBD meets Surry Hills. When you arrive the sign is simple ALBERTO LOUNGE, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. For those who recognise the location it is the site of the old Berta Restaurant (17-19 Alberta Street, Surry Hills)
Entering what seems like a long hallway, you could be forgiven for feeling like you have slipped into a hip nightclub in Rome or Firenze. The music hits you with force as you walk down through the dim towards the bar (and that is where the magic is created).
The wall is lined with bright poster art from movies and festivals and it all adds to the theatre of a great restaurant. The music comes from a DJ with an eclectic collection who plays familiar but not popular music that again feels true to the theme of the place.
The feeling that you have just slipped into a Fellini movie is clearly not by accident. After establishing a string of successful restaurants including Shady Pines Saloon and Restaurant Hubert chef Daniel Pepperell together with brothers Anton and Stefan Forte as well as colleague Toby Hilton are now now creating ‘la dolce vita’ a place for the good life.
For way to long we have been bored into submission by restaurants that just stick to the formula’s, they offer the same food, the same look and it becomes quite hard to remember where you ate what – and was it good? In the 1980’s and 1990’s Sydney’s premium restaurants sought to differentiate themselves by seeking out locations with amazing water views and at last we had something to remember.
This new incarnation of restaurants evoke emotion, connecting you with rich memories that go beyond the food you ate. They blend traditional and familiar fare with unexpected flavours, smells confusing and delighting the senses.
Alberto’s provides you with a travel experience without leaving home, (in much the same way the quite excellent Restaurant Hubert evokes a sense of 1920’s France), Alberto’s takes you to Rome, Milan or Firenze and for a couple of hours you can be transported away.
The menu is straight forward but delicious with each making you wonder what was that unfamiliar yet delicious flavour. There are three pasta dishes and two main dishes that are accompanied by simple yet brilliant starters and equally tantalising deserts.
The wine list provides a rich range of choices with an excellent selection of Italian wines and special selection of orange wines which are increasing in popularity.
Our party enjoyed a shared entre of house made ricotta (pane carasau) $13 followed by San Daniele prosciutto with summer melon $23. For main course it was parapadelle with a ragu made of veal osso buco, saffron and parmesan ($25) and murray cod with roasted garlic butter ($48). For sides we had Fagiolini – green beans with capers and a tonnato dressing – delicious ($13).
We finished the meal with quite likely the best cannoli I have ever tasted, perfect sweet whipped vanilla ricotta, in a crumbling crunchy biscuit roll and candied pistachio nuts and orange peel – exceptional.
To drink we had the Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir which was delicious – some small details do matter and the wine was served in the correct pinot glasses. To finish we had a glass of Pedro Jimenz PX.
Albertos is one of the ‘Swillhouse Group’ venues which include Hubert, Shady Pines Saloon, Frankies Pizza and Bistro 916. Chef Dan Pepperell who established himself at the brilliant ’10 William Street’ in Paddington has created a menu that is complex in its simplicity, not a lot of dishes, each fairly familiar but all of them special and with a unique twist.
Albertos is the kind of place you want as your local, to pop in for a glass of wine or a cocktail it is a place to fall in love with.