Is Nozawa Onsen the perfect ski resort? It depends...

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Maybe not for everybody but for us it is definitely pretty close.

We have been lucky enough to ski in North America, South America, Europe, Australia, New Zealand and Japan. We love skiing in Japan for a number of reasons, firstly of course the snow which is abundant and excellent quality, secondly the culture – Japanese culture is polite, fascinating and very different to the rest of the world, thirdly the food and lastly that it doesnt get as brutally cold as Canada (at least on Honshu).

So for all of the reasons above Nozawa Onsen is one of the best resorts we have visited, great skiing across lots of terrain, a warm village feel with great food and plenty of places to get a drink and hang out with the locals.

We have saved a selection of our favourite places to visit, eat or stay on a google map (link below and at the bottom) so you can grab the link and have all the best places saved on your phone!

https://goo.gl/maps/zFUUAn2Ekx292YeM8

WHERE IS IT

Nozawa Onsen is located in the Nagano Prefecture on the east side of Honshu (the big island of Japan). The village sits at about 600 metres above the Chikuma River (the longest river in Japan) on the slopes of the Mikuni Mountain Range. Getting there will take about 20 minutes to drive from the Iiyama Shinkasen Station up into the village OR its about an hours drive from Nagano City. There are buses that leave from Nagano train station or its very easy to get a taxi from Iiyama Station up the mountain to your accomodation (or vice versa).

There are reportedly more than 1500 ski resorts in Japan but the big ones most people know are Niseko & Rusutsu (on the North Island Hokkaido). Hakuba Valley (sometimes referred to as ‘Ski Bali’ due to the sheer number of Australian and Kiwi visitors and businesses), Shiga Kogen and Madarao. Over time we will provide a similar perspective on each of the other resorts and some of other the lesser known. Nozawa Onsen, Madarao, Arai and Myoko Kogen are all in the same region. Hakuba (90 mins from Iiyama) and Shiga Kogen (40 mins from Iiyama) are a bit further a field but still an easy drive.

VILLAGE HISTORY

When you visit Nozawa Onsen it is immediately apparent that you are in a small farming town, rich with heritage and culture and not just a ski resort. There are about 3,500 permanent residents who are mostly rice farmers in the warmer months. Originally established in the Kamakura period (1272) its famed hot springs (onsen) have been attracting visitors to come, bathe and soak in the natural hot water. The Nozawa Onsen Ski Club was established in 1918 the same year that the Iiyama Railway was opened. The first lift was established in 1950 and the area became a regular ski destination, in 1998 the winter Olympics were held in Nagano area with events held in Nozawa but things quietened down a bit after that. In 2005 the village community formalised a company owing the Nozawa Onsen Ski Area and they are still the principle owners of the resort.

The village has about 30 hot spring Onsen’s and 13 public onsen for bathers to enjoy a soak after a big day on the mountain or working in the rice fields. Ogama is perhaps the most iconic located in the centre of the village it is a beautiful historic timber building covered in snow and belching steam out. Not a place to soak is the Ogama Onsen which is a series of cooking pools near the top of the village and you can see locals arrive with a bag of eggs and vegetables to cook in the hot water.

THE MOUNTAIN

Unlike many of Japan’s ski resorts Nozawa has been investing in lifts and ski infrastructure with a fleet of 30 new snow groomers, new 10 seater gondola’s, upgraded covered fast quad chairlifts (chondala’s) and more. There is plenty of terrain to ski for all levels of skill and experience with over 297 hectares and 50 kilometres of runs which range from long green easy trails to more challenging moguls and steep blacks. For those who chase the powder stashes into the trees the Yamabiko area offers in-bounds tree skiing.

ACCOMODATION OPTIONS

The village has a range of accomodation options from budget to luxury covering tatami rooms in traditional ryokan through to smart modern apartments with their own private onsens, the choice is yours.

EATING & DRINKING

You are spoiled for choice when it comes to the various dining options, with nearly 100 restaurants the village has choices from Sushi to Wine Bars, traditional Izakaya to casual pub food, Swiss bakery to ramen there is something for every palate. On the mountain there is real choice as well with 16 restaurants that range from the ever-present Japanese Katsu curry (curry & rice with a crumbed pork cutlet). Yamabiko is a steak house, Utopia does chicken burgers, Buna does great ramen and curries, Kawahiro does excellent tempura. If you are looking for a more traditional western lunch menu try Popeye where you will find wraps, pasta and burgers.

Did we mention that Nozawa has its own distillery where you can taste and buy award winning local gin and soon Japanese Whiskey.

WORTH VISITING?

Definitely.

In our opinion Nozawa Onsen is fantastic an excellent ski resort with 10 metres of annual snowfall, modern lifts, a mix of challenging and intermediate terrain, excellent food and accommodation options and a beautiful village. There is history and culture around every corner you are reminded that this is not just a ski resort, it is home to 3,500 people and it a village both proud of its heritage and evolving to be a world class resort.