REVIEW EAT > Frog by Adam Handling, Covent Garden (18/20)

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Adam Handling is creating some of London’s most compelling culinary experiences. The Frog is a Michelin starred stage where British luxury meets the modern artistry.

AMBIANCE >

Seated in Covent Garden amid plush pastel-pink chairs and soft white leather tables, guests face an open kitchen where the chefs themselves become part of the performance. The buzz is sophisticated yet warm, a world away from stuffy formality, with the room radiating a playful energy and the quiet intensity of a fine theatre. Each night is a celebration of creative London, with contemporary touches and immersive culinary showmanship that blend seamlessly into the city’s pulse.

FOOD >

The journey begins with a sequence of inventive snacks—crab with elderflower jelly, boneless chicken wings with tarragon, and egg custard crowned with wild garlic oil and parmesan foam. Most famed is Adam Handling’s signature roast chicken butter: chicken parfait, crisp flecks of stuffing, and ethereal rolls, described by many as the “perfect roast chicken sandwich” and a dish worth reveling in, time and again. Expect seasonal British ingredients, flashes of umami and wit: Wagyu, hen of the woods, lamb sweetbread and morels, or sturgeon waffles with Exmoor caviar—a menu constantly surprising and delighting, each plate both a puzzle and a pleasure. Desserts veer toward the inventive, like a bright white sphere of vanilla ice cream, passion fruit, tart citrus, and coiled white chocolate—a finale that stays with the memory.

SERVICE >

Expertly drilled staff float through the room with grace and verve, always ready with knowledge and warmth. The theatricality is matched by meticulous service and wine pairings, all designed to draw guests deeper into the experience. The immersive open kitchen and visits from the chefs ensure diners are never passive, but always included in the unfolding story.

OWNER HISTORY >

Frog’s origin is a testament to Adam Handling’s vision and daring. Named for the “leap” he took opening his first independent venture in Shoreditch in 2016, the restaurant moved to Covent Garden in 2017. The Shoreditch site may be gone, but Handling’s ethos of bold innovation—guided by a zero-waste, sustainable philosophy—lives on in his flagship, now an epicenter of London’s modern culinary imagination.

CHEF >

Chef-owner Adam Handling, originally from Dundee and a former ‘Masterchef: The Professionals’ finalist, is renowned for his relentless drive to push boundaries. Handling apprenticed at Gleneagles at age 16, ran kitchens from Scotland to London, and drew global inspiration from travels in Japan before launching his own London restaurants. Today, he is famous not only for high-wire culinary creativity, but also for his fierce commitment to sustainability and zero-waste cooking—a philosophy evident in every dish.

WINE SERVICE >

Wine pairings—standard or premium—accompany the tasting menu, deftly curated to heighten each dish’s impact. Options range from classic European varietals to lesser-known producers, with knowledgeable staff on hand to guide each flight.

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN >

Frog’s design is bold yet inviting: pastel and white interiors emphasize comfort and theatricality. Most tables centre on the open kitchen, making the heart of the restaurant visible—every guest a front-row spectator in a culinary show, every plate delivered with a flourish.

CONCLUSION >

There is no other London restaurant quite like Frog by Adam Handling—where sustainable ethos, technical bravura, and wild imagination combine for a dinner that lingers long after the last glass is emptied. It’s not just a meal, it’s a dazzling event—one for the memory, the palate, and the heart.

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