EAT > Kafeneion Emeis, Melbourne (15/20)

Once upon a time Lonsdale Street was home to Melbournes Greek community and was thick with restaurants and cafes. Today however most are gone, out to the suburbs leaving most people to believe that there are few choices in the CBD other than Stalactites (the greasy late night diner). Kafeneion Emeis, perched above the bustle of Spring Street, does precisely that, offering a slice of Greek hospitality that feels as much about philoxenia (friendliness to strangers) as it is about food.

ORIGINS >

Before finding its current home in the storied rooms above Spring Street, Kafeneion Emeis began as a pop-up on Bourke Street, inhabiting the former space of Self Preservation. The early days were marked by an intimate, experimental energy, with regulars drawn in by the promise of soulful Greek cooking and convivial late nights. This sense of community and culinary curiosity laid the groundwork for the restaurant’s next chapter: a move to the old Supper Club, where its spirit of hospitality and tradition could truly flourish.

AMBIENCE >

Step up to the first floor of the Melbourne Supper Club and you’re greeted by a space that’s both nostalgic and refreshingly modern. White linen-draped tables, mid-century touches, and the gentle hum of conversation set the tone. The room’s sophistication—monochrome-clad waiters, Parliament House glimmering through the windows—never tips into stuffiness. Instead, there’s a relaxed, communal energy: a mess hall for grown-ups, inspired by the Athens of another era.

EAT >

The kitchen here is a love letter to Greek home cooking, steering clear of the usual clichés. Don’t expect souvlaki or moussaka. Instead, the menu is built around ladera—slow-cooked, olive oil-rich dishes that evoke the warmth of a grandmother’s kitchen. Think araka (peas and artichokes), briam (roasted vegetables in tomato), or the fish of the day, all cooked with a light, respectful touch. There’s a soulful fava dip crowned with capers, ouzo-cured kingfish with fruity olive oil, and a braised lamb so tender it barely needs a fork. Even the hand-cut chips, fried in olive oil, are a revelation.

For night owls, a post-10pm supper menu features traditional Greek soups: avgolemono (silky chicken and lemon), magiritsa (offal), and kakavia (fish), each bowl a comforting embrace for late-night diners.

DRINK >

Being in the Supper Club above the wonderful City Wiune Shop and the European it is no surprise that the wine list extensive. Within the wine list is a thoughtful blend of Greek and local drops, with varieties like assyrtiko and xinomavro adding interest and depth.

SERVICE >

The team, led by seasoned restaurateurs Con Christopoulos and Stavros Konis, brings genuine warmth and a sense of occasion to every table. It’s the kind of place where you’re as likely to linger over a conversation as you are a glass of wine.

VERDICT >

Kafeneion Emeis is not just another Greek restaurant—it’s a celebration of heritage, hospitality, and Melbourne’s unique culinary spirit. For anyone seeking a meal that’s both comforting and quietly adventurous, this is a table worth securing.

#ALMANAK-MAGAZINE

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Image Credit | Kafenion and Almanak.

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