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TRAVEL > The Incredible Magic of Queenstown

As we start to feel the chill of autumn in the Southern Hemisphere, plans for the best place for a ski trip are discussed, and a return to Queenstown (in New Zealand South Island) is always a serious contender for best wine and snow holiday.

Queenstown in winter is a winter wonderland that should be on every traveler’s bucket list. This scenic resort town located in the Southern Alps of New Zealand’s South Island offers visitors a breathtaking backdrop of snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and a plethora of winter activities to keep the adrenaline pumping. Whether you’re an avid skier, cyclist, golfer, wine lover, or a fine diner, Queenstown has something to offer.

SKIING

Clearly one of the most popular activities in Queenstown during winter is skiing. The town is surrounded by some of the best ski slopes in New Zealand, including The Remarkables, Coronet Peak, and Cardrona all only a short drive from the centre of Queenstown.

Each of these ski resorts offers a unique experience, from steep terrain and backcountry skiing to family-friendly slopes and ski lessons for beginners. The Remarkables (28kms from Queenstown), is known for its varied terrain with plenty of more challenging runs for intermediate and advanced skiers. The three mountain bowls have stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Coronet Peak (16kms from Queenstown), was established in 1947 and it is New Zealands oldest commercial ski area, and is a favourite among locals and visitors alike, offers a range of runs for all levels of skiers and snowboarders. With stunning views out over the valley to the lake and the rolling almost roller coaster like trails that cross the mountain make for a great day of skiing. Coronet Peak also has a regular bus pick up from downtown Queenstown to get you up the mountain with regular first tracks and night skiing meaning that you can literally ski from dawn to dusk.

Slightly further is Cardrona (it is approximately 45 minutes away on the way to Wanaka) with 465 hectares of skiable terrain it is unquestionably the biggest resort easily accessible from Queenstown and just as The Remarkables and Coronet Peak are each special in their own way, Cardrona is full of features that make it a brilliant ski resort. With its brand new Willows basin and quad chair lift which opened up another 65 hectares of terrain with some of the best snow on the mountain. For those like a good meal there are great restaurant and cafe choices on the the mountain at Cardrona as well as the legendary Cardrona Hotel at the base of the mountain.

DINING

With over 150 bars, restaurants and cafes there is plenty of choice for fine dining. Some of the absolute stand out venues include Gibbston Valley Lodge (home of Gibbston Valley Wines) where inventive twists on classic European cuisine match with the stunning views over the vines. Modern Italian restaurant Aosta in Arrowtown is making spectacular fresh pasta and pairing the freshest of ingredients with the finest culinary skills and its going to leave you dreaming about when you can come back. Amisfield (an outstanding winery restaurant) sits in a stunning stone building next to Lake Hayes, chef Vaughan Mabee continues to create stunning feasts, the restaurant was recognised in 2022 as Restaurant of the Year with three hats by Cuisine Good Food Award (and the wine is excellent too…).

And there are many more True South Dining which looks about over Lake Whakatipu (towards The Remarkables) plays on the idea of food as theatre, it is not just about creating a mouthwatering dish but also stunning visual creation using the freshest local ingredients such as fish, venison and lamb. The Botswana Butchery is an icon of Queenstown, situated in the historic Archers Cottage, head chef Warwick Taylor has an extensive menu with an emphasis on some amazing grilled meats.

Mountain Biking at Coronet Peak, Rude Rock – photographer Jay French

WHEN YOU ARE NOT SKIING

If skiing is not your thing, don’t worry; there are plenty of other activities to enjoy in Queenstown. There are some amazing cycling and mountain bike trails, like many ski resorts around the world the resorts in the Queenstown area have all built excellent mountain bike trails for use in the warmer months and keep people coming up the hills. If that is not your scene then take a scenic helicopter ride over the Remarkables, or go ice skating on the outdoor rink at the Queenstown Gardens, you can take a trip in a jet boat on the lake or take a leap of faith with a bungy jump.

WINERIES

Queenstown is home to some of the best wineries in Central Otago if not the world. This region is known for its world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and many wineries offer tastings and tours throughout the winter months. Some of the most popular wineries to visit include Amisfield, Gibbston Valley, and Mt. Difficulty.

There are six sub regions of Central Otago which are Cromwell, Basin, Bendigo, Bannockburn, Gibbston, Alexandra and Wanaka. With so many wonderful choices to visit I have selected a couple here but there are many others that are truly excellent.

We have already mentioned Gibbston and Amisfield so I won’t revisit but both are exceptional and worth travelling for a meal or a tasting. Personally we are great fans of Chard Farm on the road north from Arrowtown towards the township of Crowmwell. The minerality (a combination of schist rock and quartz) of the wines from this area creates plenty for the vines to struggle against as they grow into delicate but incredibly rich and flavoursome fruit. Chard Farm produce Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Rose, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir all very good but it is the Pinot Noir that really shines. With seven different blended and single vineyard pinot noirs on offer there is plenty to choose from but for me the Viper Vineyard Pinot Noir ($85 NZD) and the Tiger Vineyard Pinot Noir ($85 NZD) both are stand outs.

Another winery definitely worth a visit is Wet Jacket Winery making smart Pinot Noir ($45 NZD), Rose ($30 NZD), Pinot Gris ($30 NZD) and a tasty Gewürztraminer ($32 NZD).

A final recommendation for this article is to visit Mt Difficulty which has a lot more than the entry level Pinot Noir brands you may be familiar with such as the very approachable Roaring Meg ($33 NZD), the single vineyard wines are released when the quality is exceptional and there is the opportunity to produce a wine that truly reflects the microclimate, soils and grape clones from each site. These vineyards are Long Gully, Target Gully, Pipeclay Terrace and Mansons Farm ranging from $60 to $90 NZD per bottle.

Following are a couple of recent reviews of other special Central Otago wines.

https://almanak.com.au/archives/2023/drink/felton-road-2022/
https://almanak.com.au/archives/2023/drink/valli-waitaki-2020/

REGION

Another must-visit destination in Queenstown is Arrowtown, a charming historic village just a short drive from the town center. Arrowtown is famous for its gold-mining history, and visitors can take a stroll through the town’s restored streets, visit the Lakes District Museum, or take a scenic hike along the Arrow River.

If you are a skier or snowboarder, visiting Queenstown in winter is a magical experience that definitely should not be missed, with The Remarkables and Coronet Peak on the same ski ticket its easy to get excellent value. If you just love travel, wine and fine food there is still plenty to do and this makes an amazing short break. With its stunning scenery, world-class skiing, and abundance of winter activities, it’s the perfect destination for anyone looking for an unforgettable winter getaway.

The Remarkables Skifields
Elevation1943 metres
Vertical357 metres
Skiable Area220 hectares
Lifts4 chairlifts (2 detachable 6 seater, 2 quad), 4 surface conveyor lifts,
Highest lifted point: 1943 metres
Lowest lift: 1622 metres
Lift Operation9.00 am – 4.00 pm
Terrain30% Beginner, 40% Intermediate, 30% Advanced
Standard Season10 June – 1 October
Average Snowfall3.67 metres per year (excluding snowmaking)
SnowmakingTerrain park, beginners’ area, Alta Green, Casterway, Gotham City and Turquoise novice trails and Ozone Tubing Park
Nearest TownQueenstown (28 km/45 minutes)

Coronet Peak
Elevation1943 metres
Vertical462 metres
Skiable Area280 hectares
Lifts3 chairlifts (2 detachable 6 seater, 2 quad),
4 surface conveyor lifts,
Highest lifted point: 1943 metres
Lowest lift: 1622 metres
Lift Operation9.00 am – 4.00 pm
Terrain30% Beginner, 40% Intermediate, 30% Advanced
Standard Season10 June – 1 October
Average Snowfall3.67 metres per year (excluding snowmaking)
SnowmakingTerrain park, beginners’ area, Alta Green, Casterway, Gotham City and Turquoise novice trails and Ozone Tubing Park
Nearest TownQueenstown (16km)

Cardrona
Elevation1860 metres
Vertical600 metres
Skiable Area465 hectares
Lifts5 chairlifts
1 x Chondla which has 10 gondola cabins and 40 x 6 seat chairs)
4 x Quad chairs
1 x Platter
3 x Surface beginner lifts
Lift Operation8.30 am – 4.00 pm
Terrain25% Beginner, 25% Intermediate, 30% Advanced, 20% Expert
Standard Season17 June – 15 October
Average Snowfall2.7 metres per year (excluding snowmaking)
SnowmakingMain, Captain’s, Arcadia & Valley View basins.
Nearest TownQueenstown

LINKS

If all this sounds like a wonderful trip and you would love go along with a small group then you might be in luck.. Almanak Travel is planning a luxury small group tour to Queenstown this year, then express your interest here and we will get back to you with proposed travel dates and costs for this year.

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James Campbell: James loves to travel always on a plane and hustling to be in the pointy end, he claims he has visited 150 cities all over the world and knows the best bar in each of them but who knows… We are slowly getting him to share his secrets with us, one at a time.
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