SKI > Hakuba Valley

Located in northwestern Nagano Prefecture of Honshu (the main island of Japan) at the base of the 3,000m tall Northern Japan Alps, you will find the town of Hakuba and the centre of HAKUBA VALLEY which is a group of 10 resorts (Happo-one, Iwatake, Tsugaike, Hakuba 47, Goryu, Kashmayari, Sanosaka, Jigatake, Norikura and Cortina).

But don’t think that all of these resorts are equal or close they are spread over a distance of 30km from North to South. The biggest resorts are Hakuba 47 and Goryu (which are connected at the top by lifts) and Happo-one and these are the three resorts closest to the Hakuba township.

Hakuba Valley has some of the best Back Country terrain in the world and much of it is easily accessible from the lifts. Hakuba is the only resort in Japan that offers close to 1000m of vertical terrain above the upper lifts. And this back-country bonanza has drawn some of the biggest names in extreme skiing and snowboarding to the area. The valley also hosts a stage on the world free ride tour every January.

The region blessed with abundant snowfall and high-quality powder snow with over 1000 hectares of skiable terrain, 1,070 metres of vertical elevation and a longest run over 8 kilometres. There are big bowls, narrow valley tree runs, steep moguls, cruising long trails and everything in between.

Possibly the best way to arrive in Hakuba is by train as you make your way up the valley from Matsumoto a traditional farming area with steep mountains each side of the train line you start to feel the excitement grow.

To see (and save to your phone) a google map with all of the places we mention in this article click here:
https://goo.gl/maps/uSCS8fvZNVmcde4v5

GETTING THERE

So as mentioned above the best way to get to Hakuba from Tokyo involves a train and depending on your time of day and the day of the week you might find there is a connecting train that will meet the Shinkasen. Do some research there are always a couple of different routes, many people choose to get the Shinkasen to Nagano Station and then get on a connecting bus Nagano Snow Shuttle run a great service and can take you to Hakuba and other resorts.

If you are travelling direct from the airport consider investigating a direct coach service (there are a number) that connect and meet the incoming flight. This is probably the fastest way to get there and as well as the Nagano Snow Shuttle (link above), Alipico Shuttle and a number of other firms provide links to both Nigita and Haneda international airports.

WHAT IS LIKE TO SKI

Epic Pass, Epic Local Pass, and Epic Australia Pass holders will receive 5 consecutive days at Hakuba Valley resorts, you need to take your Epic pass to the ticket office (at any of the Hakuba Vally resorts) and they will allocate you a 5 day consecutive Hakuba Valley pass.

Lets start with Happo One as it is the largest of the resorts, closest to the main town and the train station.

Happo One

Happo One is the largest resort and depending on where you are staying it can feel like it takes forever to get to the top of the resort (Happo-ike Sanso) which sits at 1831m and when you get there you can start the decent all the way to the bottom which will go over 8kms and depending on your route has some fairly steep terrain to test your knees! The Grat Quad is a double black diamond that can take you down the long fast Riesen Slalom Course (which was used in Winter Olympics) or across the face of Kurobishi and onto Skyline a run that offers the opportunity to find powder stashes or follow the trail.

As you look up the hill on the far right of Happo One you will find the Sakka Kiatone Quad which rises up above a the restaurants, lodges and hotels in the Sakka area. From there you can traverse the mountain to the centre of the resort which is lifted by the Kokusai chair which opens up to a range of runs suiting various levels of ability from beginner to advanced. If you follow the central course you will end up at the base of Gondola Adam, which lifts you to the Usagidaira Terrace (a good spot for lunch). You can take the Riesen Slalom course to the bottom.

It is worth noting that if you go all the way left or right on the mountain, you will need quite a lot of elevation in order to make it back in the other direction without needing to push or walk!

There are lots of cafe’s and restaurants all over the mountain and you will be sure to find your favourite ramen or katsu curry.

Iwatake

Iwatake is mountain with 30% beginner and 50% intermediate slopes there are some intermediate tree runs at Iwatake with most of the runs ranging between a 10° and 15° gradient. The steepest is the Dangan with a gradient at 35° at its steepest point.

The upper mountain is where the more adventurous slopes are and you can ski from the peak down all sides as the lifts return you to the upper mountain slope before making your return to home base.

Goryu / Hakuba 47

There is a good chance that if you are staying near Happo or at Base Camp you will get the free morning shuttle over to Goryu or Hakuba 47 – if get off the shuttle at Base Centre Escal Plaza then you will have the Gondola right in front of you which will take you up to Restaurant Alps (again a good spot for lunch) and you can take the Panorama Chair to Jizou Peak (1676m). Beyond this point is the famous back country, if you are planning to venture that way – go with a guide and ensure you have the right equipment.

From the top of Jirou Peak you can ski the Alps Daira zone which includes some very steep and often deep moguls in the double black expert course this opens up into the wide cruising Toomi area.

The base of Hakuba 47 Has a gondola that takes you to the far left (as you look up at the mountain). The gondola goes to the Alpine Centre which is an area often used for beginners, more experienced skiers will continue on to the Quad Lift ‘C’ which takes you the first point of connection back to Goryu via the steep ‘Adventure Course’. Last time we were in Hakuba this route was closed off so do check conditions. Alternatively you can take the High Speed Chair Lift ‘E’ which takes you most of the way to the top of Jizou Peak and from there you can either make you way back to Hakuba 47 or to Goryu.

One of the great appeals of Goryu is that has more intermediate slopes and the season stays open the longest we have skied here in early April.

Tsugaike Mountain

The base of Tsugaike is a very wide slope with a number of lifts that is perfect for beginners or intermediates looking for quick warm up laps. Taking Gondola ‘Eve’ to the top, you will alight at Jacky’s Kitchen (yep its good for lunch!) and there are a pair of lifts Tsuga No. 1 and No. 2 which take you to the top.

There is a long cruising run the switchbacks through the trees or you can take one of the steeper runs the Uma-nose (horse back) course or Han-no-ki Slope.

Norikura Onsen

Norikura is about 10kms or 15 mins drive from central Hakuba (takes about 40 min on the bus though), its not a very large resort only 50 hectares of skiable terrain, it does offer some very steep slope with one of the courses at 38°.

From the top of Norikura it is possible to ski to nearby Cortina via the Alps No.10 Pair Lift. Norikura and Cortina both offer opportunities to ski the back country (with a guide). This area is renowned for its powder and on a powder day everyone is scrambling to get there and if you miss the HV2 bus which leaves the Happo Terminal at 7.20am you might not get there til after 10am.

Cortina

Cortina is recognised for getting the most snow in the Hakuba Valley, for those considering a visit many choose to stay in the iconic ski in ski out Hotel Green Plaza (Cortina) which has a bright red roof.

One of the key attractions for Cortina (other than the powder) is that they have opened up tree skiing zones where the trees have been thinned out. Some of these runs are very steep 42° and it is recommended that you only proceed if you are wearing a helmet and have the correct safety and avalanche equipment.

If you have a car you can drive to Cortina and parking is free but you will need a 4WD and snow tyres as the road is steep and it can be very icy.

VILLAGE FACILITIES

The village area around Hakuba is divided into three main areas Wadano, Happo Central and Echoland each area has its own strengths.

There are ski hire shops everywhere and the Australian brand Rhythm sports is in a few locations across town – they keep a good range of kit for hire and sale and the shop in Wadano does a good coffee in the morning too!

There a few very good restaurants but you do need to book up to a week in advance to get a table in peak season. There are also burger bars (Lion) and traditional ramen bars, izikaya (beer and food – often yakitori), Italian, French and more. Good coffee and breakfast is available in a few places – The Penguin Cafe and Sounds Like Cafe are both very popular in Echoland.

For those who like to onsen (and who doesnt) there are lots of small public onsen that you can visit for a fee (normally its about 500 yen. Some of the hotels will also allow you to visit their bath house (for a fee) but it is worth calling to check availability first.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many, many restaurants, hotels, lodges, apartments to suit most budgets and where Wadano is largely quieter and close to the lifts, Echoland and Central have more shops, restaurants and cafes. Ultimately it comes down to budget and personal choice but do look out for where the shuttle bus will stop (usually at the large hotels) as you may find you have a bit of a walk each day.

There are lodgings that are really ski in ski out but on the whole the trade off is they are further from the the town. But all of this can be resolved as there are excellent taxis available!

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LINKS

• https://www.hakubavalley.com/en/
• https://iwatake-mountain-resort.com/winter/course_lift
• https://www.hakubaescal.com/winter-en/
• https://www.hakuba47.co.jp/winter/en/
• https://www.happo-one.jp/en/
• https://www.skihakuba.com/cortina.htm
• https://www.tsugaike.gr.jp/#
• https://www.hgp.co.jp/cortina/ski/
• https://naganosnowshuttle.com/destinations/hakuba-valley/