SKI > Alpe d’Huez

Image Credit | Alpe d’Huez Resort

Alpe d’Huez was the site of the very first Pomagalski surface lift, built in the mid 1930’s (for Australian’s that means a Poma). The resort really took off as the host of the bobsled event for the 1968 Winter Olympics. The resort has over 249 kilometres of on piste runs and 84 ski lifts, making it one of the largest in the world.

Pic Blanc glacier sits at 3,300 metres, which is the highest lifted point for the resort and from there you get amazing panoramic views before you head down the longest run in Europe, the Sarenne Piste (16 kilometres), which believe me will have your legs absolutely burning. Especially if like me it is the last run before the bus leaves and you have left it a bit tight, so you have to race down as fast as your skiing ability can manage.

Alpe d’Huez is actually made up of five smaller resorts and two alpine villages: 

• Alpe d’Huez
• Auris-en-Oisans
• La Garde
• Le Freney d’Oisans
• Oz-en-Oisans
• Vaujany
• Villard-Reculas

Each are a little different offering a unique village experience across the same resort with one lift ticket.

1. Auris-en-Oisans ski area

Where Auris scores is that even at the height of the season, it is very rare to face lift queues. It is a south facing area that sits at 1600m with some ski in and ski out accomodation. It has a good beginners area and 15 lifts directly out front. For the advanced skiers there are a couple of bucket list slopes in La Fuma and Col du Cluy.

The Alpe Auris Express is a high-speed quad chair that starts almost flat, but that is misleading. Locally known as the ‘scare chair’, it drops suddenly into the Sarenne Gorge before mounting the other side to the Auris domain.

If you’re looking for a superb black, turn left at the top of the chair and continue along the ridge to the Col de Cluy. Turn right and follow the available contours to skiers’ left to return to Auris.

At the end of the access path a right turn will bring you to the Forêt de Maronne chair and a very attractive tree-lined blue/red piste. Before dropping into Auris proper, black run enthusiasts might like to try La Fuma. However, be warned, it’s a typical Alpe d’Huez black (ie steep, steep and steep!).

When in Auris, don’t forget to visit Jacques, the lumberjack. This is a magical place with lots of different sections including a logging sledge, a wood stère, an all-purpose saw that’s been transformed into a swing, wooden sculptures and a log slalom. 

2. La Garde and Le Freney ski area

Both quiet villages that are a little removed from the bustling and sometimes hectic resort vibe that you can get at Alpe d’Huez, this is the place to locate yourself if you love peace and quiet and an element of an ‘untouched’.

3. Oz-en-Oisans ski area

A holiday village located at 1,350m in the heart of the domaine, once again it features ski in and ski out accomodation with beautiful lodges and chalets built in wood and stone. To ski to Oz from Alpe d’Huez, take the first stage of the DMC and then the steep, north-facing Poutran red run. You’ll find large amounts of off-piste on either side of this run. Take care. The left, north-facing side is extremely avalanche prone.

4. Vaujany (Montfrais)

This mountain village sits at 1,250m on a sunny plateau facing the Grandes Rousses massif. There’s a real alpine village feel here and it’s perfect for families and beginners. This village has a lot of facilities that make it an ideal base including an aquatic centre, ice rink, shops and even a bowling alley!

To ski to Vajuany, directions are simple: avoid the tendency to return to Oz and take the only other downhill path available. You’ll find yourself skiing down the Rousses/Chalets blue run, a wide saucer-shaped piste that becomes Les Travers and continues on for about 3km to the Montfrais sector.

From here, the Vallonnet four-man chair takes you about as far from Alpe d’Huez as it is possible to get. The run down (Edelweiss) is very much a blue affair and returns to the base of the four-man without deviation. Part way down, however, is a black off-piste run called Roche Melon (only open when conditions are good) that’s never groomed and descends through the trees to eventually join a blue run called the Vaujaniate.

One of the best blue runs in Alpe d’Huez

Slightly out of sight, you can pick up the Vaujaniate piste from Montfrais by taking the only downhill depart from the area. This is one of the best blue runs you are likely to ski – wide and magnificent.

It descends alongside icicle-clad walls through the trees to a route that follows the valley floor. Eventually you’ll get to a point where you can re-access the Vaujany bowl by the Villette-Montfrais télécabine (or return to Vaujany on the Vaujany-Villette télécabine).

Returning to the base of the Vaujany bowl at Montfrais, you will find the second chairlift (Montfrais) whisks you up to a surprising variety of runs that descend back to the base of the bowl. This chairlift also heads back towards Alpe d’Huez.

Turn right at the top and follow the blue Cascade piste to the Clos Giraud chair, signposted ‘Oz/Alpe d’Huez’. 

Check your watch! If you’re returning to Alpe d’Huez by this chair, make sure you don’t miss the last lift. If you do, the only way home is a pricey taxi ride from Vaujany.

5. Villard-Reculas

A typical mountain village sitting at 1500m with a small ski area. It’s a great south-facing spot with some of the most accessible off-piste ski in Alpe d’Huez. The town is made up of beautiful small chalets and quaint alleyways. The skiing in the area consists of easy blue on piste and easy access to more adventurous off piste terrain.

One outstanding feature of the Villards’ face is the never-groomed black run Forêt. There’s also a red from the bottom of the Petit Prince drag that defies belief. Not only is it never groomed, but it’s one of the steepest reds in Alpe d’Huez. The face also has a huge amount of easily accessible off-piste which is predominantly north-west facing. Only at the very bottom of this area will you find the one thing that Alpe d’Huez lacks … trees. Return to Alpe d’Huez via the Villarais four-man chair and ski down the Signal pistes.

GETTING THERE >

The closest town to Alpe d’Huez is Grenobe and you can either fly there or get a train either option is good but it is still about 100km up to the resort. The road is one of the most famous in the Tour d’France bike race because it features 21 hairpin bends which range from a gradient of 8% to a gradient of 13%.

The 100 kilometres drive from the Grenoble Alpes Isere Airport will take about 1 hours and 20 minutes to climb up from the valley to the town.

WHERE TO STAY >

There is no shortage of choice when you are looking to book accomodation in the Alpe d’Huez region, from luxury hotels to chalets and apartments there is something that will suit everyone and every budget. But where to stay becomes the question with so many choices.

Lets start with the four main areas to stay.

1. Alpe d’Huez
   Being in the centre of the resort has lots of benefits and of course this is the centre of the hustle and bustle, with plenty of bars, restaurants and shops to keep you busy. The town is divided into seven ‘quartiers’ or quarters. The Quartier des Jeux is right in the centre and most of the bars and restaurants are located here. Vieil Alpe is the oldest of them, boasting traditional buildings and family-run restaurants as well as larger hotels for group or event bookings. Les Bergers is the most modern, offering self-catering apartments at the foot of the slopes and a good selection of places to eat, drink and shop. Passeaux, Eclose and Outaris, at the bottom of resort are mainly residential, while Cognet, at the top, is home to the majority of the hotels, sitting along the bottom of the Signal piste. There are free shuttle buses and lifts to help transport skiers around the resort, so make sure you check where the nearest bus stop is in relation to your accommodation.
2. Huez Village
   A little lower down the mountain at 1450m you will find the traditional alpine town of Huez, there are a few hotels, bars and you can take a gondola up to the main resort.
3. Vaujany
   Is a pretty and quiet village with hotels, chalets and appartments. There are also some good restaurants and bars.
4. Oz en Oisans
   A small purpose built village that has easy slope access, at 1350m you connect to either the Oz Vaujany ski area or to the Grande Domaine area. Ideal for families with a few restaurants and bars.
5. Auris en Oisans
   Is on the opposite south facing slope (1600m) and is connected up to the centre of the Alpe d’Huez resort by the Alpauris chairlift. Again ideal for families.
6. Villard Reculas
   A traditional village (1500m) with a some lovely wood and stone chalets and traditional French alpine hotels.

There are two five star hotels in Alpe d’Huez each offering ski in and ski out access.
Chamois d’Or is a grand hotel that is right next to the ski school meeting point. Rooms are traditional mountain style but full of luxury touches and some of the larger suites even have their own open fire places. The hotel has a large sunny terrace with stunning panoramic views over the mountains and valley, there is a library, swimming pool, sauna and a gourmet restaurant.

Daria-I Nor Hotel opened in 2018, it is named after one of the most famous and rare diamonds (Daria-I-Noor). With only 37 rooms and nine suites (each with private balconies), the Daria-I Nor Hotel has a huge spa, two pools, a gym, sauna, two restaurants and lounge bar.

a few others to consider are:

1. Hotel Le Pic Blanc:
   A 4-star hotel with stunning views, top-notch amenities, and excellent service, making it a favorite among luxury travellers.
   Address: Quartier des Bergers, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 11 42 42
2. Hôtel Les Grandes Rousses:
   Centrally located with ski-in/ski-out access, this hotel also features a spa and gourmet restaurant.
   Address: Route du Signal, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 36 36
3. Chalet des Neiges:
   Beautifully appointed chalets offering modern comforts and a home-away-from-home feel.
   Address: Avenue de l’Eclose, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 31 64
4. Residence Pierre & Vacances L’Ours Blanc:
   Conveniently located apartments that are ideal for families and groups, offering good value for money.
   Address: 65 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 11 42 00

Image Credit | Alpe d’Huez Resort

WHERE TO EAT >

Alpe d’Huez offers a gastronomic adventure with a variety of restaurants serving everything from traditional alpine cuisine to international fare.

1. L’Altibar:
   Renowned for its delicious fondues and raclettes, this restaurant offers a cozy and authentic dining experience.
   Address: 117 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 35 48
2. Le Chalet du Pèr’Sillé:
   Offers traditional Savoyard dishes in a charming setting, perfect for a hearty meal after a day on the slopes.
   Address: Route de l’Altiport, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 65 65
3. La Petite Taverne:
   A cozy spot with hearty mountain cuisine and great views, ideal for a relaxed and satisfying meal.
   Address: 20 Rue du Pic Blanc, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 42 11
4. Restaurant La Crémaillère:
   Features gourmet French cuisine with a contemporary twist, offering a refined dining experience.
   Address: Place de l’Eglise, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 31 64
5. Pizzeria Pinocchio:
   Perfect for a casual meal with delicious pizzas and pastas, this pizzeria is a hit with families and groups.
   Address: 25 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 30 59

WHERE TO DRINK >

Après-ski in Alpe d’Huez is a lively affair, with numerous bars and pubs to unwind after a day on the slopes. Given the other villages are smaller, we have focused on venues in the main town.

1. La Folie Douce:
   Famous for its open-air parties and live music, this venue is a must-visit for party-goers.
   Address: 1650 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 37 31
2. Smithys Tavern:
   A British-style pub with great drinks and a fun atmosphere, perfect for socializing with fellow skiers.
   Address: Rue du Coulet, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 11 36 80
3. Le Mondial:
   A cozy bar with a wide selection of beers and cocktails, ideal for a relaxed evening.
   Address: Place Paganon, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 33 33
4. L’Etalon Rieur:
   Popular for its vibrant ambiance and DJ sets, this bar is a favourite among the younger crowd.
   Address: 66 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 33 21
5. Underground Bar:
   Known for its friendly vibe and eclectic drink menu, this bar is a great place to end your night.
   Address: 130 Avenue des Jeux, 38750 Huez, France
   Phone: +33 4 76 80 65 61

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WHERE TO SKI >

Alpe d’Huez grand domaine is ENORMOUS so there is way to much to talk about, one thing is certain you are going to want to ski the longest and probably the most famous run of the resort the Sarenne which runs from the glacier at the top of Pic Blanc, past the unfortunately named ‘Herpie’ chair right to the bottom where you can catch the Alpauris chair back in the the village and rest those shaking legs.

The other famous run is the “Tunnel” which diverts to the right at the top of Pic Blanc and a tunnel takes you through the mountain and drops you into a steep bowl and run through to Lac Blanc.

With so many small villages to explore there is plenty to ski and roam at Alpe d’Huez.