WINE > Mac Forbes RS20 Strathbogie Riesling 2022 (90/100 points)

Mac Forbes makes some great wines from fruit grown in the Yarra Valley; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay released as Single Vineyard, and Village. As well as Cabernet and Merlot released under the ‘Hugh’ label. But for me the most interesting stand out has been the RS range of Riesling which predominately comes from the Strathbogie Ranges.

Mac Forbes started working as a young wine maker at Mount Mary which grounded his skills and knowledge. He also worked in Austria and Portugal where he worked alongside Dirk Niepoort (a man some claim is the greatest wine maker in Portugal). 

Today label produces wines grown from their own vines in the Yarra Valley as well as select partnerships.

VINEYARD

The Caveat Vineyard in the Strathbogie Ranges between Yea and Euroa, is found in elevated granite soils, sitting 600 metres above sea level, this altitude creates large temperature fluctuations from day to night which is key to establishing the acidity and complexity of flavour.

Soil in this area is free draining sandy loam with large granite deposits, there are 5 acres of vines planted here in an area largely used for sheep grazing rather than vines. The vineyard was planted in 1982 by the Bennett family and grapes are dry grown with organic fertilisation from the sheep! Pruning and picking are done by hand the harsh conditions deliver low yields with strong mineral and rich fruit flavours.

WINE MAKING

A wet winter led to a wet spring bringing difficult flowering conditions but big leafy canopies. The summer was cool and mild with long ripening period. The grapes are picked to optimally achieve the perfect residual sugar result and each year the final result is on the bottle. In 2022 the first grape pick was made into an RS8 Riesling, the third pick had riper fruit, lower acidity and softer skins. In previous years the residual sugar has varied quite widely with vintages being made from RS 8 to RS80.

Grapes were de-stemmed and crushed before pressing, they then spend five months in small and large oak barrels.

TASTING

This is a deliciously textural wine, there are hints of Jasmine and green apple, the hint of sweetness comes through with stone fruits like peach and nectarine balanced with a fine minerality and acid that keep a lovely balance. This is a perfect wine to enjoy as an aperitif or after dinner.

Tasted June 2023.

90/100 points.

“Notes of jasmine, lemon curd, green apple sherber on the nose. This wine is off-dry and medium bodied. The palate is so and beautifully rounded with aromas of lemon curd, cream, yellow peach, baked yellow apple, fennel seed, chalk.” 

REVIEWS AND AWARDS

• 90/100 points – Crispy Blackall, Almanak Magazine