There are some wines that are truly remarkable, recalling them evokes memories that touch all of the senses, reminding you of where you were, what you ate, who you were with. I clearly recall the first time I tasted the La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva, it was in New York at the super stylish Cosme restaurant*, not recognising many of the wines on the list I took this on recommendation from the sommelier as something special and he was not wrong.
This is a wine that is only released in the good years thus the Gran Reserva title and it absolutely deserves to be in amongst the group of the very best wines in the world. Being predominately Tempranillo many people may have missed the power and complexity and subtlety of this wine, it’s the kind of wine people miss while looking for an amazing Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz or Pinot Noir. But the Gran Reserva 904 is there make you think again.
THE WINERY
La Rioja Alta is a grand old estate founded (and still owned) by four wine growing families in 1890. The wines are produced from estate-grown, low yielding, old vineyards that are still produced in a very traditional way. The winery’s commitment to quality extends to keeping all production of oak in-house, utilising their own cooperage on site. In 1904 Don Alfredo Ardanza (founder of La Rioja Alta) created the first Reserva 1904 which eventually was shortened to the Gran Reserva 904.
Gran Reserva 904 is produced from vines over 60-years old usually composed of 90% Tempranillo & 10% Graciano. Maturation takes place in 4-year-old American oak for 3 years, followed by a further 4 years in bottle prior to release.
THE 2011 WINE PRODUCTION
Tempranillo (89%) from vines over 60 years old planted in Briñas, Rodezno and Villalba, and Graciano (11%) from our Montecillo vineyard in the municipality of Fuenmayor.
Despite water shortages during the first few months, the vines in the upper areas of Rioja managed to attain a balanced canopy, that benefited from sunny days and cool nights, that ripening up to harvest perfectly.
The grapes were collected in boxes and transported to the winery in refrigerated vehicles to preserve all their integrity. After destemming and light crushing, the grapes were put in tanks where they underwent alcoholic fermentation for 17 days. Batches were selected and allowed to complete malolactic fermentation naturally over 75 days.
In June 2012, the wine was transferred to four-and-a-half-year-old American oak barrels (made in-house), where it stayed until March 2015. During aging, the wine was racked eight times using traditional barrel-to- barrel methods. The final blend was bottled in November 2016. The bottles are then cellared a few years before release.
The Gran Reserva 904 is not made every year, in fact it was not made in 2012, 2013 or 2014. The next release is the 2015 which was scheduled to be released in 2022 but has been delayed to 2023 with significant acclaim that this is perhaps going to be the best Gran Reserva 904 ever made.
TASTING NOTES
The wine has extensive aromatic complexity, there are notes of wild strawberry, red cherry, plum, blackberry and cranberry combined with aromas of tobacco, brioche, ground coffee, caramel, cedar and cinnamon blossom.
Serve this wine blind to a friend and they will likely struggle to immediately identify Tempranillo as the predominant grape, rather more likely is that they will tell you it is an exceptional wine and can they have some more please.
The alcohol and acidity are elegantly balanced on the palate with its gentle tannins providing a smooth and refined mouthfeel. The aftertaste hangs long and fine both in the front and back palate and allows you to continue to savour and enjoy.
“Lovely dried red fruit, such as plums with just a hint of prunes. Cedar, walnut and leather undertones. Full-bodied with lots of fruit, considering its age, as well as hints of smoke, tobacco, bark and black tea. Some balsamic at the finish. Traditionally styled with lovely results. Drink or hold.” –
JamesSuckling.com (December 2020)
Just incase you are wondering they do actually make a higher tier wine the Gran Reserva 890 (shortened from the origins of the company in 1890) this wine was listed in the top four wines in the world by Wine Spectator – high praise indeed. I am still waiting the chance to get my hands on a bottle and provide my review.
Alcohol | 14.5% ABV
Acid | 5.5 g/l
Price | ~$199 AUD
REVIEWS & AWARDS
96/100 Points – James Suckling
94/100 Points – Robert Parker – Wine Advocate
92/100 Points – Wine Spectator
97/100 Points – Nick’s Wine
97/100 Points – Crispin Blackall – Almanak
* Footnote I can clearly recall that beautiful meal with my partner at Cosme and what we ate, I also recall the meal enjoying a bottle at Sydney’s beautiful Catalina restaurant (for my fathers 85th birthday) and most recently celebrating my wedding (with my now wife) and extended family, I have two more bottles in the cellar for future memories to be made around.