EAT > Pinotta, Fitzroy North (15/20)

Pinotta has been a busy bustling bistro wine bar on St Georges Road in Fitzroy North since 2011, led by the vibrant Heidi Modra who welcomes guests who come from the neighbourhood and across Melbourne.

The big change in 2024 is the addition of Phillipa Sibley as executive chef. Sibley (you may well remember her name) is a world famous Australian desert and pastry chef. Her early career was in Michelin star restaurants in both London and France before returning to Australia in 1996. That return led to her opening a string of incredibly successful and widely acclaimed (three hat restaurants) est, est, est (1996), Luxe (1998) and Ondine (2001) all of them were amazing.

So we had some big expectations on the new menu, it was all very good, but no surprise the desert was absolutely amazing.

FOOD >

The menu changes regularly with a strong Italian influence, expect Bruschetta and Salumi to start. The Bruschetta with perfectly grilled sweet bullhorn peppers and creamy stracciatella. The Salumi was a yummy mortadella and rich chewy mortadella, with green olives and soft fluffy salty focaccia.

Pasta dishes vary based on seasonal ingredients we had a mostly mushroom gnocchi which was a medley of mushrooms, rich and delicious.

We then shared an enormous Scotch Fillet steak cooked rare and served with french fries and a ‘friendly salad’, so called because it does not have any bitter greens in it.

The menu also had options such as whole garfish, braised lamb shoulder and grilled baby chicken.

The desert was sensational, featuring a hard to describe paddle pop of incredible flavour that had something for everyone and the best tiramisu I have ever (yep ever) eaten. Yes that means better than Grill Americano, yes also better than Giulio Passami Lolio in Rome, better even than the Grand Hotel Belmondo in Taormina, Sicily (the hotel TV show The White Lotus is based on) though that was also very good.

It was a great meal, in a very comfortable, unpretentious room, not particularly fancy just good food, good flavours, good service and amazing desert. No wonder Sibley was once best known as the queen of deserts, it is clear she is a grand master in that domain.

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Image Credit | Pinotta and Parker Blain Photography

WINE >

The wine list is interesting and full of good value choices that are sure suit most patrons, don’t expect a large ‘museum’ collection or super premium selection but you are sure to find a bottle you like. There is a generous selection of wines available by the glass too.

CONCLUSION >

This is a locals bistro wine bar, the kind of comfortable place you would be happy dropping in once a week for a drink and snack or hanging on for a meal. But it is great for getting a bunch of friends together too. With room for a couple of big tables out the back where you have a great view of the kitchen the room is warm and the illustrations on the wall by Sibley are excellent too!

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