EAT > L’Épi d’Or, Paris (17/20)

L’Épi d’Or: A Parisian Bistro Reborn

Nestled in the heart of Paris’s 1st arrondissement, L’Épi d’Or stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of traditional French bistro cuisine. This historic establishment, dating back to 1880, has recently undergone a revival under the expert guidance of Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège, (his fifth restaurant with partner Élodie) breathing new life into a beloved Parisian institution.

AMBIANCE >

Stepping into L’Épi d’Or is like traveling back in time. The restaurant has retained its authentic charm, with a cracked tile floor, a imposing zinc bar, and globe lamps casting a warm glow over the space. The sepia-tinted walls, stained by decades of Gauloises and Gitanes smoke, add to the nostalgic atmosphere. The preservation of these classic elements creates a cozy, unpretentious setting that perfectly complements the culinary offerings.

The service at L’Épi d’Or strikes a balance between attentive and relaxed, with some staff members known for their acerbic wit and hilarious interactions. This adds to the authentic bistro experience, creating a welcoming environment for both locals and tourists alike.

THE FOOD >

Piège’s approach to L’Épi d’Or’s menu is one of respectful restoration rather than reinvention. The chef has focused on elevating classic French bistro dishes, ensuring that the flavours of traditional Gallic cuisine remain accessible as everyday fare.

Standout dishes include:

• A generous and delicious salade Niçoise, featuring a perfect vinaigrette and quality ingredients
• Homemade sausage served with scrumptious mashed potatoes
• Steak tartare, expertly prepared with fresh herbs, a runny yolk, and crispy fries

The restaurant offers a daily changing menu (semainier) with different fixed-price options for each day of the week, providing excellent value for central Paris.

We enjoyed the set daily menu of the perfect Niçoise salad and then a roast chicken and perfect mash potatoes, followed by a generous slice of chocolate gateau, yum. The food has a home cooked feeling, full of flavour and unpretentious.

THE WINE >

L’Épi d’Or Paris focuses on offering a curated selection of high-quality wines, (with a good selection of organic wines) that complement their traditional French bistro cuisine.

We enjoyed a lovely Nuis Saint Georges, Premier Cru, Clos de la Marechale from Jacques Frederic Mugnier (2018) which was delicious though a little pricey.

CONCLUSION >

L’Épi d’Or successfully walks the tightrope between honoring its heritage and meeting contemporary dining expectations. Piège has managed to preserve the soul of this historic bistro while subtly elevating its culinary offerings. For those seeking an authentic Parisian bistro experience without the hefty price tag of more touristy establishments, L’Épi d’Or is a must-visit destination.

With its combination of timeless ambiance, expertly crafted traditional dishes, and reasonable prices, L’Épi d’Or earns a solid 17/20 rating. It stands as a shining example of how Paris’s culinary heritage can be preserved and celebrated in the modern dining landscape.

Image Credit | Aux Terrasses & Crispy Almanak

Food 4/5, Service 4/5, Wine 4/5, Room 5/5 = 17/20.

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