EAT > Gallina, Athens Greece (16/20)

There are restaurants in Athens that lean on history, there are restaurants that lean on the view, and then there’s Gallina—a cosmopolitan newcomer that stands at the intersection of art, design, and gastronomy. Tucked away in the Acropolis-adjacent neighbourhood of Koukaki, Gallina is the kind of place where every detail, from the marble mosaic floors to the gel-cushioned chairs, speaks of a singular vision: to surprise and delight.

AMBIENCE > Art, Light, and Intimacy

Step through Gallina’s glass doors and you’re greeted by a space that feels at once intimate and theatrical. The interiors, crafted by the LOT office for architecture and Objects of Common Interest, are a tactile feast: hand-knotted wool and silk tapestry by Jannis Varelas, custom tube light columns, and a patchwork of Greek marble and ceramic tiles underfoot. The high-ceilinged dining hall, with its warm-toned wood, stainless steel accents, and open kitchen, sets the stage for a night where art and food are inseparable. The upstairs mezzanine, lined with wooden wine displays, offers a more secluded setting—perfect for those who want to linger over a bottle from the 800-strong wine list.

EAT > Greek-French-Scandi Fusion with a Comfort Food Soul

Chef Pavlos Kiriakis, whose pedigree includes Michelin-starred kitchens from San Francisco to Bilbao, brings a menu that fuses Greek, French, and Scandinavian influences without losing sight of comfort. The kitchen makes everything from scratch—bread, butter, stocks, and even pickles—setting a high bar for quality.

The must-order here is the rotisserie chicken, cooked slowly over wood fire and finished with a miso beurre blanc and generous truffle shavings—a dish that’s both luxurious and deeply comforting. The wagyu beef and Greek red shrimp tartare, though beautifully presented, can divide opinion; some find the surf-and-turf pairing bold, others less balanced. For the adventurous, the pithivier pie with pigeon, foie gras, eel, and mushrooms is a nod to French tradition, while the grilled turbot with Assyrtiko wine and caper sauce takes you straight to the Aegean.

Desserts are as inventive as the mains—none more so than the Basque cheesecake crowned with caviar, a decadent finish that’s become something of a signature.

DRINK > A Cellar for the Curious

Gallina’s wine program is as ambitious as its menu, with over 500 labels curated by sommelier Giannis Gougoutoudis, focusing on natural and rare finds from Greece and beyond. The team of mixologists crafts cocktails that nod to Greek mythology, adding another layer of storytelling to the experience.

SERVICE & SCENE >

Gallina draws a crowd of design aficionados, collectors, and well-travelled food lovers. Service is polished but relaxed, and the open kitchen means you’re never far from the action. Prices are on the higher side for Athens (expect around €80 per head), but for a special occasion or a night among friends who appreciate good wine and conversation, it’s money well spent.

CONCLUSION>

Gallina is Athens’ new nexus of art, design, and cosmopolitan dining—a restaurant where the rotisserie chicken is as memorable as the Jannis Varelas tapestry, and where the wine list invites exploration. Not every dish will be to everyone’s taste, but the ambition and artistry are undeniable. Go for the chicken, stay for the art, and leave with a sense that Athens’ dining scene has found a new centre of gravity.

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Image Credit | Gallina

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