EAT > Circl Wine House, Melbourne (18/20)

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A vinous wonderland in Melbourne’s CBD, Circl has quickly established itself as one of the city’s most ambitious wine destinations. Under the guidance of award-winning Head Sommelier Xavier Vigier, this Punch Lane establishment houses a staggering collection of 1,500 wines, with an unprecedented 150 available by the glass.

AMBIANCE >

The two-story venue on Punch Lane exudes sophisticated charm through its thoughtfully designed spaces by MARCH.STUDIO architects. From the stylish screening of the building façade to the hallway entry the lands you in the middle of the restaurant this small space is designed to create intimacy while remaining both stylish and timeless.

The ground floor features polished concrete floors complemented by rich red leather seating, creating an intimate atmosphere that balances modern elegance with warmth.

The dramatic upper level serves as the restaurant’s crown jewel, showcasing a room-length, glass-enclosed wine cellar as its backdrop. This stunning display of the venue’s 1,500-bottle collection not only serves a practical purpose but creates an impressive architectural feature that reinforces Circl’s commitment to wine culture while providing diners with a sophisticated visual feast.

FOOD >

Executive Chef Elias Salomonsson, formerly of Smith St Bistro and Longrain, crafts a menu that harmoniously complements the wine program. Standout dishes include caviar with house-made crumpets, smoked eel tart, and Loddon Estate duck with Davidson plum BBQ sauce.

On the night we arrived we started with something special by the glass which meant a glass of Rivulet Forestier Chardonnay 2021 ($29) for Angie and a glass of the Trimbach Cuveé Fredric Riesling 2016 ($31) for me. Both sensational.

We started with the classic Circl Caviar ($28) served in a tin with cremé fraiché fine chopped chives and served with a home baked crumpet. Then we had a Tuna Crudo which is six slices of yellow fin tuna with a beautiful green sauce (no idea what was in that but very tasty) and I think it was a little dill. ($27).

Main course was the half duck for me and wagyu tritip for Angie. The Loddon Duck is served two ways the leg is a perfect confit and the breast with an incredible sweet crust that offsets the Davidson plum sauce ($72). I reflected that it seems only a short while ago that duck which is often one of the more expensive things on a restaurant menu would usually be about $46 and it would be such a special treat. Today of course most mains in smart restaurants go for in the mid fifties. Angie had the Blackmore wagyu tritip cut of beef 250 gm ($70) she swears it was amazing and I really enjoyed it but the duck was something else.

We shared a salad and finished the meal with a dark chocolate mousse, with Pedro Ximenes and a cremé fraiché ice cream ($22) which was the perfect finish to a remarkable meal.

I reflected later both after the meal talking with Xavier and chef Elias that this was the best duck I have ever eaten. It was one of the very best dishes I have ever eaten and that is something given some of the places we have been lucky enough to visit recently!

DRINK >

The wine list is 140 pages long. It is nothing short of extraordinary. With an incredible range not just of vineyards and wines but also of vintages of specific special wines. Vigier, who earned recognition as Australia’s best sommelier at the 2021 Wine List of the Year Awards, has assembled one of the country’s largest Champagne collections, featuring 135 bottles, so if bubbles are your thing, this is your place.

The venue’s commitment to wine discovery includes weekly releases of extremely rare wines, limited to 75ml per person. The cellar holds 4,500 bottles and with 1500 different wines to choose from the 140 page wine list does take a little time to properly consider. Be assured that once he knows your preferences Xavier will have plenty of suggestions to tempt your palate.

We had our glasses of white wine and then progressed to a bottle of Burgundy, the Domaine Gilbert Felettig ‘Les Crais’ from Marsannay. Which was the last bottle in the cellar but absolutely sensational as Xavier said when he poured “this wine is drinking like a Grand Cru”. And while it was not Grand Cru prices it was Burgundy prices so keep that in mind!

After dinner we decided just one more small glass of wine each would be the perfect choice to finish and match the rich chocolate mousse desert we shared. A glass of the rare Domaine de la Grange De Peres 2019 was suggested, a powerful but special wine and so it should be (I looked up the retail price and online this is retailing at $500 a bottle).

The Paris-born Vigier leads a knowledgeable team of sommeliers, fostering an atmosphere of accessibility and discovery. The service philosophy emphasizes introducing guests to new and unexpected wines.

CONCLUSION >

In the centre of the CBD but still hidden away, the restaurant launched and almost immediately received a hat from the good food guide and jumped to the top of the wine list of the year awards with three glasses and being recognised as having Australia’s best champagne list.

The extensive by-the-glass program offers unprecedented access to rare and allocated wines, making fine wine exploration more accessible to those who appreciate an exceptional range, the food is sensational and the service is delightful. Combine this with the cosy stylish ambiance and it is a place we will be back again and again, you might find us in a table by the window!