EAT > Bistro Gitan, South Yarra

It had been more than a year since our last visit to Bistro Gitan, a restaurant that was our local for so long, was suddenly not so local given our move across the city and living more of our lives in the country.

Bistro Gitan is one of a group of restaurants run by the Reymond family (others are L’hôtel Gitan and Frédéric), each excellent restaurants and a legacy to executive chef and restauranteur Jacques Reymond is a giant of the Melbourne food industry his previous ‘Jacques Reymond Restaurant’ was regularly voted best in Victoria (six times in a row). In 2014 it was awarded Three Hats and recognised as the ‘Best Restaurant in Australia’ by the Restaurant and Catering Association and that was when Jacques decided it was enough and closed the restaurant to work on other projects. Today his three restaurants are largely run by the extended family and of those three it is Bistro Gitan that always stands out to me.

The bistro is set on a corner on the end of Toorak Road, opposite Fawkner Park in a beautiful Victorian era building, it is warm comforting and very French from the moment you enter. Perhaps that warmth comes from the fireplace where you can enjoy a wine or cocktail before or after your meal. Or maybe it comes from the outside seating which is perfect for an early Autumn Melbourne evening.

image credit | Bistro Gitan

But I actually think that what makes this place special is the familiarity of the team, the waiters recall you when you arrive, the menu is largely the same each visit and it’s familiarity is what you look forward to and the wine list is full of solid options at a fair mark up. In years past living a few blocks away we would dine at Bistro Gitan once a month and without fail we would always have escargots.

I have eaten escargots in France and Australia in Michelin Star and three Hat restaurants but it is the escargots from Bistro Gitan that I always come back to. Served simply with almond butter, parsley and garlic sauce ($18) they are fantastic. So too is the chicken liver parfait ($26) and the duck breast (yum $48). But the other classic for me will always be Steak Frites (I like the 230g Victorian Southern Ranges Eye Fillet $57) and the cooking is perfect.

WINE >

The wine list has some great options, with wine available by the glass, pichet (250ml) and carafe (500ml) as well as by the bottle you are likely to find something to match your palate. With an excellent range of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both from Australia/New Zealand and the Old World. There are also some excellent choices from Spain, Portugal and Italy.

If you are more into a solid red with your steak you will find wines like the Rockford Basket Press (also available by the glass right now $33), John Duval Entity, Craiglee, Clonakilla, Jasper Hill and Torbreck.

CONCLUSION >

The best escargots I have eaten anywhere in the world

Crispy

A visit to your favourite local restaurant might not be the same as visiting a high end degustation restaurant, but that is largely because that is not what you want. I wish that there was a Bistro Gitan closer to where I live now because it is brilliant.