EAT > Bistra, Melbourne (16/20)

Nestled at the quiet end of Elgin Street in Carlton, Bistra has quickly established itself as a go-to destination for those seeking a blend of casual elegance and exceptional cuisine. This modern Australian bistro, helmed by ex-Attica sous chef Alex Nishizawa, it offers a dining experience that is both sophisticated and welcoming.

AMBIANCE >

Situated in a classic Victorian shop front Bistra’s two-story space balances casual comfort with relaxed refinement. The smart functional interior features tasteful lighting, sheer curtains, and white tablecloths, that creates a welcoming atmosphere. The restaurant strikes a perfect balance between classy and comfortable a place to go for a fancy meal with colleagues or a casual weeknight drop in.

FOOD >

The menu at Bistra draws inspiration from British, French, and Italian culinary traditions while maintaining a distinctly Australian identity. Diners can expect a thoughtfully curated selection of dishes that showcase seasonal ingredients and classic flavour combinations.

Standout Dishes:

• Potato rosti with trout roe, crème fraîche, and chives
• Sommerlad chicken breast with leek, bagna cauda, and jus
• Lychee, coconut custard, and lime granita dessert

The restaurant also offers a popular cheeseburger for those seeking a more casual option, served with fries and paired perfectly with a cold Martini or draft beer.

We wandered in slightly late for a week night dinner (around eight), a few colleagues who had a couple of drinks afterwork and were feeling peckish. A quick Uber electric silently whisked us from the city to Carlton and when we arrived I was looking around thinking I have not been to this end of Elgin Street for years but isn’t a smart looking strip.

The hospitality was evident from the first moment, professional and warm. We started with shared baked scallops served with garlic butter and parsley, perfect ($34) and then sharing a chicken pate with traditional accompaniments ($25) tasty as expected plenty of sourdough and cornichons.

For main course two of us selected the steak, an eye fillet served with peppercorn sauce and fries ($65) which was perfectly cooked and there were plenty of fries to soak up the delicious sauce. Todd decided to go on his own opting for the Lamb Rack, served with horseradish cream and minted peas ($56) which (he told us gloatingly) was stunning. Either way delicious food. We finished up with a Chocolate Mousse Blood Orange and Marmalade ($18) a generous serve and perfect to share between three.

DRINK >

Bistra boasts an impressive wine cellar which has been curated over a decade, featuring a diverse selection of local and international wines. The restaurant takes pride in showcasing Victorian producers, offering options from established wineries like Gembrook Hill and Garagiste, as well as up-and-coming winemakers we started with. A rotating selection of craft beers and a concise list of classic cocktails round out the beverage offerings.

We started with a personal favourite the Hoddle Creek 1er Yarra Valley Pinot Noir which was stunning and then followed it with a bottle of Naoussa Alta from Greece another good example of Xinomavro wine that we are only just learning to appreciate in Australia.

AMBIANCE >

The service at Bistra is was excellent balancing being always professional, but also friendly, and attentive. The restaurant’s atmosphere is lively and convivial, with a bustling energy that adds to the overall dining experience.

With mains ranging from $41 to $100, Bistra offers a fine dining experience at a relatively accessible price point. The restaurant also features a three-course menu for $85 per person.

The downstairs room is cozy there are not a lot of tables and that shows with the service. They do have room upstairs to host larger groups and have a novel way to separate the space with a floor to ceiling curtain that makes the space more intimate for private gatherings.

CONCLUSION >

Bistra has successfully carved out a niche in Carlton’s dining scene by offering refined, approachable cuisine in a welcoming setting. The overall experience – from the thoughtfully prepared food to the extensive wine list and attentive service – makes Bistra a very worthy addition to Melbourne’s culinary landscape.

It’s going to be a regular on my dining choices from now on!

Image Credit | Il Bacaro & Crispy Almanak

Food 4/5, Service 4/5, Wine 4/5, Room 4/5 = 16/20.