The “Crown Prince” is considered an entry level wine to the world of Bass Phillip Wines it is often poured by the glass at restaurants and some people don’t like that it can be quite cloudy. But I love it and having just acquired some more of the 2016 release I thought it definitely worthy of review.
The Vineyard
Bass Phillip vineyards were established in Gippsland Victoria in 1979 with a focus on growing the Burgundian varietals of chardonnay and pinot noir, wine maker Phillip Jones focused on making premium wines. The first wines were released 12 years later and Bass Phillip has been broadly recognised since that time as one of the greatest Pinot Noir producers in Australia.
Grapes are farmed using biodynamic practices which means they follow lunar cycles, there is minimal intervention, no irrigation, pesticides or fertilisers. The grapes are cropped at very low yields to maximise flavour development.
The region of South Gippsland has deep silty loam filled volcanic soil with high rainfall (approx 1,000mm pa) warm summer months, balanced by humidity and late afternoon, cool air from Bass Straight. All factors contributing to the intense flavours, aromatics and exceptional length in the finish.
The vines are densely planned and cropped at very low levels, Bass Phillip crops at about 1.0 -1.3 tonnes per acre, compared to from 2 to 4 tons per acre average in Australia.
Wine Making
Everything about the way wine is made at Bass Phillip is to minimise the handling as the wine is made that means minimal pumping and filtration, natural yeast, no fining agents. Racking is kept to a minimum and no pumps are used in the winery. “The difference between good and great Pinot Noir is texture. We try to minimise the bruising effects that pumping can have on this texture.”
In 2020, Phillip Jones the self taught vintner now in his seventies sold Bass Phillip to a consortium led by Jean-Marie Fourrier the former winemaker of great Gevrey-Chambertin Burgundies including Le Chambertin, Clos St Jacques and Les Amoureuses.
New Chief Winemaker – Jean-Marie Fourrier
Jean-Marie Fourrier took over the family’s 10 hectares property from his father in the mid 1990s at the age of 23 years old. His experience was gained not only at the family domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin, but whilst working at Domaine Drouhin in Oregon and with the legendary Henry Jayer in Vosne-Romanee. Jean-Marie was involved in the making of the classic 1988 vintage at Chez Jayer, and his winemaking philosophy has followed Jayer’s practices ever since: making great wines begin in the vineyard, and ever fastidious about maintaining healthy, well nurtured vines, followed by strict and extremely natural winemaking techniques. “The Philosophy of Doing Nothing”, that is Jean-Marie’s winemaking motto.
The Tasting
One should not compare this wine to its big brothers, surely they are in a different league entirely and more than deserve their own reviews. This wine was however considered to be the entry level for Bass Phillip Pinot Noir (as of 2023 there is not a Crown Prince release and it is assumed that he ‘Estate’ has replaced it as the entry level wine).
The wine is delicate and light in the glass, notably cloudy (many of the Crown Prince releases have been cloudy), there are blackberries and cherries on the nose together with a more savoury hay or straw in there as well. The fruit is on the palate too, rhubarb and cherry there is quite a lot of texture and complexity on both the front and back palate, with spice a balanced lingering finish. It is a lovely wine. Perfect with food, an obvious selection this was always the go to wine on the list when visiting Bistro Gitane in South Yarra.
“Very dark wine, saturated with wild dark fruits, with pronounced acidity, and a longer palate than usual: textured & lingering with soft tannin. By far the best we have made. Up in price but excellent value. Stays alive in the glass for hours. Very easy drinking.”
Phillip Jones, Bass Phillip
Grape | Pinot Noir 100%
Oak | 18 mths (French Oak)
Seal | Procork
pH | na
Acidity | na
Alcohol | 12.8 % ABV
Drink By | 2030
Tasting Date | Oct 2023
Price | $65
Technically flawless, this is a proud pinot noir. It has a long future (even with the closure) and an even longer palate. The red fruits of the forest/forest floor are beautifully articulated, the tannins superfine, the oak merely a means to an end.”
James Halliday 2021
Sight
Light but cloudy in the glass.
23/25
Nose
Rich on the nose berries and cut hay with a hint of spice.
24/25
Palate
Rich on the palate the fruit and a little acid forward balanced with the tannins – delicious.
24/25
Finish
The finish is long it stays balanced right to the finish.
24/25
Reviews
- 96/100 points – James Halliday, Wine Companion
- 92/100 points – Nick Stock
- 92/100 points – Huon Hooke, The Real Review
- 95/100 points – Jeremy Oliver
- 95/100 points – Crispin Blackall, Almanak Magazine
“The Crown Prince is often suitable for more early consumption, but this one will improve for more than six years. The aroma has dried berries, hints of beetroot, briar and a little farmyard. There are also raspberry notes, cinnamon and earth. The front palate gives way to a layered and finely textured entry that reveals fresh cherry and some savoury flavours. Long, linear acidity flows through the palate. The wine finishes with supple and relatively soft tannins that will ensure medium term cellaring. 95 Points”
Jeremy Oliver