EAT > El Celler de Can Roca, Girona Spain (19/20)

There are restaurants that make you feel like you’re at the centre of the culinary universe. El Celler de Can Roca, tucked away in a quiet Girona suburb, is one of them. The Roca brothers-Joan, Josep, and Jordi-have turned their family-run spot into a temple of modern Catalan gastronomy, and the world has taken notice.

AMBIENCE > 

The dining room is a masterclass in understated elegance: glass walls frame a tranquil courtyard, natural light spills across pale timber, and the hum of anticipation is palpable. There’s a sense of theatre without pretence; the kind of place where the staff glide, the service is choreographed but never stiff, and the Roca brothers themselves often appear tableside, as gracious as they are gifted.

EAT >

El Celler’s tasting menus are legendary. The “Feast” (Festival) menu is a tour de force-20 or so courses that riff on Catalan tradition, memory, and imagination. Dinner begins with a playful parade of amuse-bouches: edible bonsai olives, a “world tour” of tapas, and a parade of tiny, perfect bites that set the tone for what’s to come.

Standouts:

• Iberian Suckling Pig: Meltingly tender, cooked sous-vide, paired with papaya, green apple, coriander tacos, and a pine nut foam. A riot of texture and flavour, anchored by a deep respect for the ingredient.
• Palamós Prawn Velouté: Intensely sweet prawn, bathed in a silken shellfish broth, a dish that lingers long after the last spoonful.
• Lamb Trio: A celebration of nose-to-tail cooking-tongue, brain, tripe, and belly-each element paired with a vibrant, surprising sauce.
• Desserts by Jordi Roca: Whimsical, technically dazzling, and always fun. One arrives as a memory of childhood, another as a perfume-inspired edible sculpture.

DRINK >

Josep Roca’s wine pairings are revelatory: rare Spanish bottles, offbeat gems, and stories in every glass. The sommelier team is as enthusiastic as they are knowledgeable, guiding you through the cellar with warmth and wit.

SERVICE >

World-class, but never haughty. The staff anticipate every need, dietary quirks are handled with creativity, and there’s a sense that everyone-from the kitchen to the floor-wants you to have the meal of your life.

CONCLUSION >  

El Celler de Can Roca is more than a restaurant; it’s a pilgrimage. Every detail, from the architecture to the petit fours trolley, is considered and executed with heart. The price is high, but for anyone serious about food, it’s an experience that justifies the journey-and the wait.

“A meal at El Celler de Can Roca is a journey through memory, place, and pure imagination. It’s Catalonia on a plate, and then some.”

#ALMANAK-MAGAZINE

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Image Credit | El Celler de Can Rocca

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