SKI > Shiga Kogen Resort, Japan

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Powder, Altitude, and the Endless Adventure of Shiga Kogen

There’s a special sense of anticipation as you wind your way up into the Shiga Highlands—a feeling sharpened with every turn, the landscape shifting from pine-lined valleys to the broad, powder-laden slopes of Shiga Kogen. Set within Nagano’s Joshinetsu National Park, Shiga Kogen is not just a ski resort; it’s Japan’s largest and highest, a winter playground with enough scope to keep even seasoned powder hunters blissfully lost for days.

Shiga Kogen sprawls across 18 interconnected resorts, with 600+ hectares of skiable terrain and over 80km of groomed runs—the most extensive connected ski area in Japan. Sitting between 1,325m and 2,307m in elevation and claiming the country’s highest lifts, Shiga is a high-alpine world of dry, quality powder and panoramic views. The cold—biting and bracing—guarantees a long season from November through May, and rewards those who come prepared for true winter with pristine, uncrowded slopes.

HOW TO GET THERE >

The journey to Shiga Kogen is part of its charm—from bullet trains to winding alpine roads, every stage builds anticipation for what lies ahead.

From Tokyo, it’s a 90-minute ride on the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Nagano Station. From there, you’ll switch gears: either board the Nagaden Express Bus direct to Shiga Kogen (about 70–90 minutes, depending on road conditions) or opt for a private transfer if comfort and door-to-door ease are key.

If you’re flying into Narita or Haneda Airport, allow 3.5 to 4.5 hours all up to reach the slopes. From Kansai International Airport (Osaka), the trip takes closer to 5–6 hours.

The buses from Nagano Station serve all major Shiga Kogen hubs—Yakebitaiyama, Ichinose, Okushiga Kogen, Takamagahara—and are well timed to connect with train arrivals. If you’re staying deep in the resort, check with your lodging—many hotels offer pick-up services from the nearest bus stop.

Winter roads can be icy, but if you’re driving, take the Joshinetsu Expressway to the Shinshu-Nakano IC, then follow signs through Yamanouchi toward Shiga Kogen.

Tip: Grab a snack and stretch at Nagano Station—for all its powdery remoteness, Shiga is surprisingly seamless to reach with some smart planning.

ON THE SLOPES >

For intermediates and beginners, Shiga Kogen is an endless playground of cruisy groomers and gentle, wide pistes that link seamlessly between areas such as Ichinose, Takamagahara, and Sun Valley. Advanced and expert skiers aren’t left out—Okushiga Kogen, Yakebitaiyama, and the Olympic runs at Higashidateyama deliver steeper pitches and even legitimate powder stashes, especially on weekdays, when local crowds thin and fresh tracks linger late into the afternoon.

The variety is astonishing. Wide-open bowls, perfectly spaced trees, classic mogul runs, family zones, gentle learners’ slopes, and the rare chance to clock up real mileage all on a single pass. A quick shuttle or ski between zones can reveal dramatic changes in terrain and vibe—from the lively dining scene at Ichinose to the serene alpine tranquility of Okushiga.

APRES >

Unlike flashier, westernised resorts, Shiga Kogen retains a firm sense of Japanese identity. The après scene is subdued; entertainment is more likely to revolve around a long soak in your hotel’s onsen or an evening of kaiseki dining than in raucous bars. Accommodation is mostly in classic Japanese hotels and ryokan, with a solid contingent of ski-in ski-out properties dotted throughout the valley. If you’re hunting for a party, look elsewhere—but if authentic atmosphere, friendly service, and cultural immersion matter, Shiga delivers in spades.

The Prince Hotels are the largest complex across the resort and do offer accomodation closer to Western style but don’t expect any kind of apres party. On our last visit the bar opened at 5pm and closed again at 7pm. The in house restaurant offered two set menu types French (which oddly was more Italian) and Japanese, food was fine but not the highlight – you come here to ski.

Staying at the traditional Japanese accomodation will see you likely to have a bed and breakfast offering. A set dinner (there will likely be a bell and everyone is expected to arrive at the same time) and a set breakfast. Its a fantastic cultural journey but some people may find themselves craving a bakery after a few days. Good news is that there are a couple each at different ends of the resort.

Restaurant Mont Rose (in the Alpen Buren Hotel, Giant) has some delicious treats that complement the usual mountain standard of Japanese curry.
Hotel Grand Phenix (right over past the Prince Hotels in Okushiga) has a similar range of delicious bakery items and is a popular mid morning stop.

OFF THE SLOPES >

The resort’s proximity to Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen means iconic experiences are just a short trip away—soaking in ancient baths or watching wild snow monkeys bathing in steaming hot springs at the famous Jigokudani Monkey Park. It’s a reminder that in Shiga, the joys of winter aren’t confined to the piste.

TERRAIN >

Statistic	Detail
Skiable Terrain	600 hectares
Number of Runs	83 kilometers
Number of Ski Areas	18 interconnected
Elevation Range	1,325 – 2,307 m
Vertical Drop	982 m
Longest Run	6 km
Lift System	52 lifts (5 gondolas)
Average Snowfall	10–12 meters per season
Terrain Difficulty	Beginner: 30% Intermediate: 40% Advanced: 30%
Season	Late November – May
Terrain Parks	3
Night Skiing	Yes, in several areas
Backcountry	Limited access

CONCLUSION >

Is Shiga Kogen for everyone? Maybe not. The cold, the traditional accommodation, the relaxed nightlife—it all feels a world apart from Japan’s more commercial resorts. But if what you’re after are genuine Japanese powder days, endless variety, Olympic heritage, and an escape from the crowds, you’ll find yourself coming back to Shiga year after year. Bring your sense of adventure—and maybe an extra layer (or two).

Last trip to Shiga had us thinking it was not for us, but a few years on with the westernisation of the more popular resorts, there is something special about Shiga that draws you back. Wide, quiet runs, authentic culture, and snow that lasts long into spring—Shiga Kogen is as essential a Japanese ski experience as the food that follows a day on the mountain. Just don’t forget your thermals.

In the spirit of ALMANAK: for intrepid souls, families craving great snow and classic Japan, and everyone in between—when the mountains call, Shiga Kogen answers.