EAT > Stokehouse, St Kilda (18/20)

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Stokehouse is Melbourne’s definitive seaside address—a place where the city’s appetite for luxury, sun and salt converge in a breathtaking, glass-fronted pavilion perched above St Kilda beach. Days here roll from luminous lunches under blue skies to candlelit dinners set against dramatic sunsets and the rhythmic hush of surf below. It’s a restaurant that has lived several lives since the 1990s, burning brightly through fire and rebirth, but always returning as the essential setting for celebration, romance, and the odd Tuesday treat.

The original Stokehouse was born in 1989, helmed by the Van Haandel brothers, Frank and John, who transformed the historic Queen Anne-style foreshore pavilion into an iconic, sun-drenched retreat. It quickly became synonymous with relaxed sophistication—champagne and seafood upstairs, casual fish and chips below, and a never-ending rhythm of celebrations by the sea. Frank and Sharon Van Haandel continued the legacy, building the Van Haandel Group into one of the country’s premier hospitality collectives.

On a January night in 2014, a devastating fire claimed the beloved timber building, sending shockwaves across Melbourne’s dining scene. What could have been an ending instead became a bold new chapter: the rebuilt Stokehouse rose in 2016 under architect Robert Simeoni, a $13-million project celebrated as Australia’s first 5 Star Green Star–certified hospitality venue.

The site now houses three venues: the upstairs fine diner Stokehouse, the more casual ground-floor Pontoon, and beachside kiosk Paper Fish—each capturing a different facet of St Kilda’s energy.

Over the last 26 years, I have been to Stokehouse for weddings, for corporate parties, for family birthday events, for date night and business dinners, it is a venue that remains both fancy and also incredibly familiar.

At its absolute best on a sunny beach day where you can watch the beach over a pre-lunch cocktail then settle in for a long afternoon.

EAT >

Under executive chef Jason Staudt, the kitchen elevates Victorian produce to glamorous heights. Expect luxuriously simple dishes, like creamily dressed spanner crab served within an airy doughnut, or crunchy saltbush and vinegar potato cake that brings the outdoors to the table. Wood-fired grilled marron arrives glistening with lime-spiked brown butter, while premium beef gets the classic French treatment—brilliant potatoes dauphinoise and a slick of Bordelaise sauce. Staudt’s menu is both approachable and inventive, with standout desserts such as rhubarb and mandarin tart, tartly uplifted by coconut and lemon thyme.

From locally-sourced shellfish to expertly executed vegetables, every dish is designed to shine against Stokehouse’s beachside setting, offering the kind of pure pleasure that can only come from confidence, restraint, and an unwavering respect for produce.

DRINK >

Upstairs, the wine program is a showstopper, curated by head sommelier Wil Martin, who leads a team adept at guiding every diner—novice or enthusiast—through a celebrated cellar. The dining room has received Australia’s highest wine list honors, its three-glass rating cemented by a collection spanning rare Grower champagnes, serious Burgundies, and cult local bottlings.

The presentation is warm, polished, and tailored—caviar with a glass of vintage Pol Roger, by-the-glass Chablis for the shellfish, or a bold Victorian Pinot Noir alongside wagyu, each delivered with genuine pleasure and encyclopedic knowledge. Stokehouse’s wine service is a masterclass in pairing experience and fun, always in service to the view, the food—and above all, the guest.

At its absolute best on a sunny beach day where you can watch the beach over a pre-lunch cocktail then settle in for a long afternoon.

CASUAL >

Downstairs, the Stokehouse precinct pulses with relaxed energy—beachside dining that’s playful and utterly Melbourne. Stokebar sweeps guests toward a polished, sun-drenched marble bar perfectly positioned for lazy afternoons or pre-dinner spritzes, arancini, and sunset oysters. Adjacent is Pontoon, a 400-seat ground-floor haven for post-swim cravings and casual grazing—think wood-fired seafood, beef brisket toasties, and a dynamic all-day menu with cocktails, frosés, and a lively wine list. Steps from the sand, kiosk Paper Fish serves up crowd-pleasing fish and chips, Balter beers, and a mood of pure summer.

CONCLUSION >

No matter the celebration, the Stokehouse continues to be a place that creates bonds and generates strong memories, it remains an icon of the very best Melbourne dining has to offer.

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