EAT > Society, Melbourne (17/20)

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Amidst the sparkling towers of Collins Street, Society is less a restaurant and more a statement—one part art installation, one part theatre for the business set, and one part shimmering supper club. Enter and you’re enveloped by velvet, soft lamplight, and enough George Jensen flourishes to spark envy on a Paris catwalk. There’s a pulse here, a certain sense that Melbourne’s corporate elite decided this is where business closes and celebrations begin.

AMBIENCE >

Grand yet controlled, Society’s room stretches luxuriously, all plush navy booths, silver champagne buckets, and the strut of staff in perfectly cut uniforms. Every corner is precision-tuned for effect. At times, the atmosphere can feel curated—cool rather than warm—but you’re swept up in the theatre of it all. On a crisp city night, the buzz is electric; a table by the window gives you a front-row seat to power plays and first dates dressed to impress.

EAT >

The menu reads indulgent: canapés, raw bites, crustacea, then dishes to share. There’s a cosmopolitan sway—Angus beef crumpet delivers genuine depth, though the crumpet itself is more sturdy than cloudlike; abalone tempura is golden, crisp, with the ocean’s sweetness just-so. Mains skew high-end and celebratory: hanger steak and fries are a textbook hit, while the kitchen shines brightest on specials—think perfectly cooked fish or the occasional seasonal standout.

Everything leans refined—don’t expect rustic; this is more couture than countryside. Portions are elegantly judged, but advice from your waiter is wise (size and cost don’t always walk hand-in-hand). The extensive wine list tempts all the way up to the stratosphere, but there are oases—a Pewsey Vale riesling, well-priced and a fine companion to both steak and sea.

DESSERT >

Mango soufflé with mountain marigold arrives impossibly airy, warm and gently sweet. But it’s the yoghurt ice cream that lingers: clean, tangy, sparking spoons from every side.

VERDICT >

Society is a glass of Dom Pérignon in a city sometimes more partial to craft beer. It dazzles when you seek shine and spectacle, excels at indulgent occasions, and provides the kind of tactile luxury Melbourne rarely flaunts. For warmth and quirk, look elsewhere—but when you want to feel the hum of the city and be swept up in its drama, Society delivers with confident, if sometimes aloof, style.

Walk in for a celebration, an anniversary, even a power lunch—just bring your sense of occasion and perhaps, a credit card with stamina.

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