EAT > Merceri, Athens Greece (16/20)

There are restaurants in Athens that lean on nostalgia, and those that chase the latest culinary trends. Then there’s Merceri: a quietly confident bistro in the heart of Thissio, where Greek tradition meets cosmopolitan flair and the result is something genuinely memorable.

AMBIENCE >

Tucked away on the pedestrian stretch of Iraklidon Street, Merceri sits within easy reach of the Ancient Agora, yet feels blissfully removed from the city’s tourist bustle. The room is elegant but never stuffy—think open kitchen, soft lighting, and a gentle hum of conversation. Outdoor tables spill onto the pavement, perfect for warm Athenian evenings, while inside, the décor is modern, understated, and inviting. Service is a highlight: attentive, knowledgeable, and refreshingly unpretentious, with a sommelier on hand to guide you through a well-curated list of Greek and international wines.

EAT >

The kitchen at Merceri is helmed by two chefs with Santorini pedigree, and their menu is a love letter to contemporary Greek cuisine, refracted through a global lens. Starters like perfectly seared scallops and a silken parsnip velouté with lobster and truffle butter set the tone—luxurious without being overwrought. Mains are inventive but grounded: the surf & turf paccheri pairs prawns and smoky black pork pancetta with a surprising twist of spirulina and citrus; duck leg arrives lacquered and tender, brightened by kumquat and plum sauce. Iberico secreto, meanwhile, is all about depth and texture—a showcase for premium produce handled with care.

Vegetarians are well looked after, and the kitchen’s commitment to seasonal, high-quality ingredients is evident in every dish. Desserts, such as the honey parfait with caramelised Valrhona milk chocolate, are both playful and indulgent. The tasting menu, with optional wine pairings, is the best way to experience the kitchen’s range and ambition, and the cocktails are as thoughtful as the food—balanced, creative, and expertly mixed.

EXPERIENCE >

Merceri’s reputation is well-earned: it’s a MICHELIN Guide restaurant, and regulars praise the combination of tradition and modernity, the “fabulous” service, and the sense that you’re somewhere special without the fuss. Not every dish is a revelation—some diners have found the seasoning a touch timid or the atmosphere a little loud on busy nights—but the overall impression is of a restaurant that knows exactly what it wants to be. It’s a place for food lovers, for celebrations, for anyone who wants to see what Athens can offer beyond the taverna circuit.

CONCLUSION >

Merceri is a quietly sophisticated bistro where Greek flavours are reimagined with skill and subtlety. The setting is charming, the service warm, and the kitchen’s best dishes linger in the memory. For those seeking a meal that feels both rooted and forward-thinking, Merceri is a must-visit in the Greek capital.

Score: 16/20  

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Image Credit | Gallina

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