EAT > Akasaka Sushi Ito, Minato Tokyo (16/20)

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Akasaka Sushi Ito in Minato’s back streets delivers a quietly confident, classically framed sushi experience — refined without being showy, and deeply rooted in Tokyo’s old-school Edomae traditions. This is the sort of place where counter craft, calm service and well-judged value make it as compelling for a languid lunch as for a more celebratory dinner.

Arriving by taxi our hostess was waiting at the door for us in traditional kimono, Sushi Ito is slightly out of the way but not way off the path, so it was not immediately clear how she knew that we had arrived, rather it set the tone of professional hospitality from the moment we arrived and slid into a comfortable seat at the classic long counter top. At the far end were a group of businessmen who appeared to be celebrating a deal with an excellent meal, good sake and plenty of whisky.

AMBIENCE >

Set on the ground floor of Sun Valley Akasaka, a short stroll from Akasaka Station, Akasaka Sushi Ito feels very much like a neighbourhood hideaway—tucked just far enough from the main drag that arrival has a sense of stepping off-stage. The entrance is discreet and low-key, giving way to a warm, timber-led counter space that reads more intimate house restaurant than glossy showpiece.

The main counter forms the heart of the room, with just over twenty seats in total and an easy line of sight to the itamae at work. There are also private rooms in a neighbouring space for a more secluded, tatami-accented option, popular with small groups and business dinners who want the full course without the performance.

EAT >

The kitchen leans into classic Edomae cues rather than avant-garde flourishes, with a focus on seasonal fish sourced directly from regional markets and handled with a light, confident touch. From the moment you arrive there is a procession of delicious morsels each presented to you with care and attention rather than flourish.

Rice is softly packed and gently warm, skewing toward the more delicate end of the spectrum, which suits the restaurant’s relaxed, refined mood. Omakase-style progressions move through a measured sequence of otsumami and nigiri that showcase both fat-rich favourites and more subtle white fish, always framed by quietly precise knife work and timing.

The nigiri was as fine as any found in the fancier or more famed restaurants visited and generous in proportion. When the service finishes with fresh water clam miso there is the offer of more sushi should we desire (no we are stuffed to the gills) and then desert and green tea.

This is a traditional restaurant where as long as you take everything that comes to you, the meal will enchant you and deliver a wonderful memory. This is not the place to try and be selective on what you do and don’t desire.

DRINK >

The drinks list is compact, with a particular emphasis on sake in particular nihonshu that tracks the same balance of polish and restraint as the food.

There is also beer, a few wines and whisky; a small spread of other standards are available, but this is very much a sake-first proposition, the kind of counter where a gently chilled Tokubetsu Junmai feels as integral to the experience as the shari itself.

We had a welcome glass of sake and then moved to very pleasant bottle of Chablis, but there was very little choice in the wines.

CONCLUSION >

Akasaka Sushi Ito is not chasing the hardest reservation in town; instead it offers a quietly luxurious, high-value take on serious sushi, just a couple of minutes’ walk from Akasaka Station. From the welcome on arrival to the hosts and chef all bowing us off as we entered the taxi you take with you the genuine sense of pride, tradition and hospitality.

For those who want old-school professional warmth, polished but unpretentious craftsmanship, Sushi Ito is ideal, just the spot to bookmark for a serious business lunch, or a low-drama omakase dinner or a first Tokyo sushi experience that feels special without tipping over into theatre. Reservations are essential.

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