WINE > Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 (97/100 points)

In 2003 Steve Flamsteed joined Giant Steps as Chief Winemaker, Flamsteed had tried his hand at a few varied jobs in Europe and Australia before learning to make wine. Working in a ski resort, a chef, a cheese maker and he was even an acrobat and juggler hoping to join the circus, but it was not until he had a season working in Beaujolais that he found his true calling. But he built vintage credibility before Giant Steps he was the winemaker in charge for Yarra Burn, BRL Hardy’s premium Victorian brand and he also did several vintages at Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River, Western Australia as well as vintages in Alsace, Provence and Brouilly in France.

Giant Steps was founded by Phil Sexton in 1997 he had come across from Margaret River in Western Australia in search of somewhere to grow and make outstanding Burgundy varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He the first site near Gruyere planting the Sexton vineyard on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges. Being a huge jazz fan he named the winery Giant Steps a tribute to the jazz album by John Coltrane.

In the time Flamsteed has been Chief Winemaker, Giant Steps wines have won 19 trophies and more than 50 gold medals in Australia and overseas, and named one of the Top 100 Wineries in the World by Wine & Spirits Magazine in the US. 

In 2020 founder Phil Sexton sold Giant Steps to American company Jackson Family Wines and while Phil continues as General Manager change was coming.

In 2021 Steve decided it was long enough as the Chief Winemaker at Giant Steps and passed the reigns on to the new Chief Winemaker Melanie Chester. Melanie joined from Sutton Grange where she was the head winemaker. She has had a broad experience working at d’Arenberg, Charles Melton, Seppelt’s Great Western and Quinta do Crasto in Portugal’s Douro Valley.

With so much change some could wonder is this the end of the line for Giant Steps making remarkable wine, thankfully it is quite the opposite and the 2021 release is outstanding, with some wine writers speculating that Giant Steps could become even better under the stewardship of Melanie and the Jackson Family.

The Vineyard

The Applejack Vineyard is an east facing slope of 12.5 hectares. The soil is grey clay loam over black basalt volcanic soil. Planted in 1997 with pinot noir (seven clones including 114, 115, MV6, D2V5, D5V15, Pommard and Abeland) as well as chardonnay at an altitude of 300 metres. The vineyard benefits from the easterly aspect with early sun warming and drying but protection from the late afternoon heat of summer.

Grapes are picked by hand (normally 3-4 weeks later than other vineyards in the Yarra Valley), which allows for a gentle and full ripening and the distinctive earthen flavours and fine tannins that Applejack is known for.

• WinemakingHand picked, all fruit is chilled overnight to 12 degrees Celsius. Fermented in small oak fermenters and stainless steel open vats. The Pommard parcels were fermented as whole bunches, while the remaining clones were destemmed to whole berries and cold soaked for five days. The resulting blend is almost 20% whole bunch. All parcels were matured in French oak 20% new, 80% older – for ten months in 225L barriques, Taransaud and Dargaud & Jaeglé. Racked to blend, no fining, no filtration. Bottled by gravity.

Wine Making

After hand picking all of the fruit is chilled overnight to 12 degrees celsius, the Pommard parcels of grapes were femented as whole bunches, the remaining clones were destemmed to whole berries and soaked for five days.

The resulting blend is 20% whole bunch, the wine is then matured in French oak (20% new) for ten months in 225 litre barriques. There is no fining or filtration and the wines are bottled by gravity.

The Tasting

A classic pinot noir colour in the glass, light but also bold, there is a perfume on the nose that is instantly recognisable as Applejack, the structure on the palate is delightful with stewed rhubarb, plum and spices (cardoman, cloves, nutmeg and cinamon). The wine has a lovely rounded mouthfeel that extends the length as tannins balance the acid, this wine has so much structure and complexity and lingers with you after each mouthful.

”I’ve long considered the Applejack vineyard to be one of the greatest sites for pinot in Australia and I’m not sure I’ve seen a better version than the 2021. A deep, bright, crimson purple. Maraschino cherry into plum, there’s an exotic and riotous amalgam of Asian five-spice and a gentle savoury, umami character. What elevates this vintage is the concentration, along with Applejack’s trademark perfume and spice. Just so vibrant and fresh on the palate, the tannins are both silky and plentiful. You will have no problems opening and enjoying this now, but the wine’s track record suggests you’ll thank me if you still have some to drink 7–10 years from now, if not longer.”

Philip Rich Wine Companion 98/100

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REVIEWS

• 98/100 points – Philip Rich, Wine Companion
• 95/100 points – Huon Hooke, The Real Review
• 95/100 points – Campbell Matthison, The Wine Front
• 95/100 points – Erin Larkin, Robert Parkers Wine Advocate
• 96/100 points – James Suckling
• 16.5/20 points – Jancis Robinson
• 96/100 points – Wine Spectator
• 97/100 points – Crispin Blackall, Almanak Magazine