EAT > Sushi Mizukami, Chiyoda, Tokyo (18/20)

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Sushi Mizukami in Ichibancho is a study in quiet precision: an intimate, nine-seat counter where Edomae tradition, long-honed technique and a distinctly Kyoto-like sense of calm converge in one of Tokyo’s most focused sushi experiences. Helmed by Chef Michinobu Mizukami, a 16-year apprentice of Sukiyabashi Jiro (Two Michelin Stars) and Executive Chef Masami Nesaki, it delivers a meal that feels both serenely classical and deeply personal, with sour-leaning shari and top-flight neta doing the storytelling.

AMBIENCE >

The restaurant sits on the ground floor of the Omiya Building in a quiet stretch of Ichibancho, a short walk from Hanzomon Station, feeling tucked away from the political bustle of Chiyoda yet very much part of its discreet, moneyed fabric. A small, refined entrance leads into a compact room anchored by a pale timber counter, soft lighting and a sense of stillness that feels closer to a Kyoto kaiseki house than central Tokyo.

With only nine counter seats, proportion and pacing are everything: guests sit shoulder to shoulder yet never feel crowded, the choreography behind the counter unfolding in near-silence save for the murmur of conversation and the clean, percussive rhythm of knife on board. The room’s restraint places full focus on the craft, from the glint of the fish case to the careful, almost meditative movements of Mizukami-san and his team.

EAT >

This is orthodox Edomae with a distinct point of view, built around shari seasoned purely with rice vinegar and tuned on the more pronounced, sour side—an immediate signal that the rice is an equal protagonist, not a neutral backdrop. Cuts of tuna, sourced via a small specialist intermediary, show remarkable depth and clarity, their concentration and umami meeting the rice’s acidity in a way that feels deliberate rather than showy.

The omakase format leans into measured progression: lighter white fish, shellfish and seasonal delicacies giving way to richer neta, each piece balanced so that temperature, texture and seasoning land in the same breath. There is a sense of narrative in the sequence—nothing feels redundant, and the final bites leave that lingering, almost quiet echo that marks a serious Tokyo counter.

Lunch and dinner are both set as course-only affairs, with prices starting from around the low-¥20,000s at lunch and from the high-¥20,000s at dinner, positioning Sushi Mizukami firmly in the upper, destination-dining bracket without pushing into the city’s most rarefied extremes. Children are accepted only when old enough to eat a full course, keeping the room’s atmosphere focused and adult.

DRINK >

The drinks list is concise but sharply curated to support the rice-forward, Edomae style, with a tight selection of sake leaning toward clean, structured expressions that mirror the shari’s lift. Expect emphasis on temperature and glassware rather than label theatrics, reinforcing the sense that nothing here is allowed to overshadow the nigiri.

Wine and other beverages are available, but the mood is firmly sushi-first: this is the kind of counter where a well-chosen junmai daiginjo or honjozo becomes the quiet through-line of the meal rather than a headline act.

We enjoyed a beer and then a selection of Sake’s each provided in a more impressive and beautiful drinking vessels (tokkhuri and ochoku).

For those booking via concierge platforms, advance payment and on-site billing are clearly structured, keeping the experience seamless once seated, the only extra cost add on is for the drinks consumed.

CONCLUSION >

Sushi Mizukami is one of those rare Tokyo counters where pedigree, restraint and hospitality align: a two-star-level experience in everything but attitude, with a chef whose long apprenticeship under a legend has been distilled into something distinctly his own.

We discovered at the end of the meal that Mizukami and his wife both lived for a couple of years in our home town of Melbourne Australia including also studying at RMIT bringing a special sense of connection between us. This was a delightful meal, exceptional flavours, inspiring knife work, every detail perfectly executed to precision.

For diners who appreciate measured pacing and an atmosphere closer to a small sanctuary than a scene, it is an essential reservation—best secured well ahead, ideally with local-language assistance or through a specialist concierge.

Edomae refers to a traditional Tokyo-born style of sushi that emphasizes fish from Tokyo Bay and classic preparation techniques like curing, marinating, and simmering to enhance flavor and preserve seafood. Literally Edomae means “in front of Edo” or in the bay in front of Tokyo. Without refrigeration, chefs developed techniques such as salting, vinegar curing, simmering, and soy-marinating to keep fish safe while intensifying umami, and these methods became defining features of the style.

The rice (shari) is seasoned assertively with vinegar (and often sugar and salt), while toppings (neta) are frequently pre-treated rather than served completely raw, for example zuke (soy-marinated tuna) or simmered eel. Edomae focuses on a relatively minimal, pure presentation: a compact piece of vinegared rice topped with a single, carefully prepared piece of seafood, highlighting craftsmanship in knife work, seasoning, and balance.

The usual Japanese term for the pouring vessel used with sake is tokkuri, which is the small carafe or flask the sake is served from at the table. The most common Japanese term for sake cups is ochoko, referring to the small cylindrical cups you typically receive with a tokkuri in restaurants. Other sake cup types you may encounter include sakazuki, (a shallow ceremonial cup) and guinomi, (a slightly larger sake cup).

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