EAT > JULIA, Shibuya, Tokyo (19/20)

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Tucked away in the residential fringes of Jingumae, just beyond Omotesando’s designer bustle, JULIA remains a Shibuya gem for those seeking Japan’s seasonal essence through innovative fine dining. Returning after our acclaimed 2024 visit to the expanded space—where Chef Nao and Sommelier Kenichiro elevated their husband-and-wife intimacy to a poised team operation—this latest meal reaffirms its status among Tokyo’s restaurant elite, blending Ibaraki-sourced ingredients with Japanese wines in a cinematic omakase progression.

Its our fourth trip back to JULIA and every time it just gets better, a little familiarity with the rituals has us eager for the warmth and exceptional service. Since our last visit JULIA has been listed in the Michelin guide and the French guide Gault Millau, and even being listed amongst the ‘Best Chef’s for 2025’ in the global awards in Milan. None of this stops the genuine intimacy that lasts from the moment you arrive right through till you leave.

AMBIENCE >

The journey begins in the first-floor lounge, where dark leather seats and soft jazz invite aperitifs amid low tables for two or four, building anticipation before ascending to the second-floor dining room. Fine dining elegance prevails upstairs: pure linens drape tables and counters overlooking the open kitchen, seating up to 32 in an intimate yet sophisticated hush that hums with quiet energy. It’s a hideaway that feels both welcoming and refined, much like the original laneway spot but scaled for broader discovery.

EAT >

Omakase unfolds across 10-12 courses, starting with lounge high-tea trays of caviar on Jerusalem artichoke crisps, hassaku orange with scallop, and duck liver macarons—each a burst of precision and layered crunch.

Tonight we started with a selection of bites each memorable for the flavour and technique. A raw bluefin tuna tart with daikon radish, popped with flavour. Jerusalem artichoke skins crisped and filled with a light mousse of artichoke and vanilla, exceptional. A rare roast beef and potato cigar generates the perfect mix of flavours in a mouthful.

Main highlights included sea urchin mixed with persimmon (so sweet and fresh), mackerel served with apple and dill, unagi eel with strawberry and a blue cheese sauce, cod milt (I had to look up what this is) served with pomelo was so surprising, a very similar light fluffy texture and flavour much like lambs brain. Sweet tile fish with shiso and wild Ibaraki duck roasted to rare perfection.

Sweets start with the surprising ‘cheese cake’ which is a sweet cheese icecream served with caviar (outstanding) and home aged persimmons served with rum icecream. The flavours at JULIA marry freshness, texture contrasts, and subtle innovation, showcasing Chef Nao’s skill with local terroir.

DRINK >

Pairings are offered either alcoholic or non-alcoholic options. We selected to go with the wines and were treated to a mix of wines and sake from around Japan. A sparkling cloudy chardonnay, sake from Ibaraki, an excellent rose with an incredible nose of strawberries and to finish a muscat mixed with a little of the Italian liqueur Disaronno (an unconventional but delicious mix).

CONCLUSION >

JULIA evolves gracefully, retaining soul-stirring originality while honing complexity in its larger home—book swiftly as recent Michelin & Gault Millau acolades draws crowds. Reservations via TableCheck; open Wed-Mon, 7pm service (closed Tue). Fully licensed. Food 19/20 | Atmosphere 18/20 | Service 19/20 | Wine 18/20.

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