EAT > Saint Peter, Paddington Sydney (19/20)

Saint Peter in Sydney is one of Australia’s (possibly the world’s) most compelling places to eat seafood right now, a restaurant that turns whole fish into high drama without ever losing sight of comfort, generosity, and genuine hospitality. Relocated to The Grand National Hotel in Paddington, it feels like both a neighbourhood dining room and is a global benchmark for sustainable, head-to-tail cooking under chef-owner Josh Niland. 

AMBIENCE >

Tucked into the ground floor of The Grand National Hotel in leafy Paddington, the new Saint Peter trades its former shoebox charm for a broader, more composed room that still hums with tightly focused energy. The space now stretches across a 40-seat dining room, a 30-seat bar and a discreet 15-guest private room, all wrapped in a low, flattering glow that suits both celebratory lunches and serious, late-running dinners.

Studio Aquilo has shaped an interior that leans into tactility: vein-ribboned stone, honey-toned timber, brass skirting and textured tiles soften the Victorian bones of the building, while art by Michael Cusack and a sculptural Colossal pendant light subtly nod to Saint Peter’s obsession with fish and bone structure. The result is an elegant, quietly opulent room that feels anchored in Sydney yet worldly, the kind of space where you immediately want to settle in, order something cold, and surrender to the kitchen’s rhythm.

EAT >

Niland’s menu is built around Australian seafood handled with almost forensic precision, rethinking what “nose-to-tail” looks like when the subject is a fish rather than a cow. Expect dry-aged tuna treated like ribeye, charcuterie fashioned from lesser-loved species, and a rotation of whole-fish preparations that change with the catch, all framed in a multi-course format that never feels didactic or joyless.

Dishes often highlight contrast: glazed tuna belly against bright, fermented chilli; crisp collars and fins served as snackable, saline crackling; or rich, long-aged cuts balanced with sharp, clean sauces and vegetables that taste like they were picked that morning. Even the bread course and sauces tell a story of waste-conscious cooking, where bones, offcuts and skins are transformed into stocks, oils and condiments that layer depth without heaviness.

For our extended Sunday lunch we started with a little amuse from the kitchen which consisted of a small slice of a fish mousse tart topped with a tomato consume gel.  From there a quick oyster (from Merimbula), and then in to starters for Angie it was a raw aged Mackerel and for me it was WA Marron served on top an Agnelotti stuffed with pumpkin.  The pasta was somehow made with fish bones (I didnt quite figure out how but it was delicious).

For Mains we both had the crumbed grilled King George Whiting which was served with some assorted greens which were tossed in a dressing that featured squid ink – it was both original and delicious.

Finally for desert I had a dish of Rhubarb, Pistachio and biscuit thin macaroon it was sweet and extremely moorish.

DRINK >

The wine list is a seafood-first document, heavy on precise, acid-driven whites, Champagne and sparkling, and lighter styles of red that flatter the delicacy and richness of the kitchen’s fish cookery. Producers with strong sustainable and site-expressive credentials are favoured, making the list feel like a natural extension of the restaurant’s ethos rather than an afterthought.

The som had us at Burgundy but he found a number of spectacular by the glass wines (even the half glass) to really enjoy some of the rare treats available.

At the adjacent Saint Peter Bar, which operates as a walk-in cocktail bar and dining space, the team doubles down on marine-friendly drinking: classic-leaning cocktails skew fresh and saline, and there is plenty by-the-glass for those easing into a pre-dinner martini or lingering over a final digestif. Whether perched at the bar or seated in the main room, service is sharp and generous with pairing suggestions, happy to guide both collectors and casual drinkers.

CONCLUSION >

Saint Peter is no longer just a cult Paddington counter; it has matured into a fully fledged flagship that still feels intimately connected to the original, singular idea—a fish eatery that treats the ocean with reverence and its guests with warmth.

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Image Credit | ALMANAK & Saint Peter

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