Step off bustling Commercial Road and into the warm embrace of l’hôtel gitan—a South Yarra institution by Jacques Reymond, where the Parisian spirit mingles with Melbourne’s urban edge.

Housed in the bones of an old pub and radiating the unforced style and glamour that’s become Reymond’s signature, its polished floorboards, frosted glass, and curved banquettes at once stylish and utterly inviting. No pretension, just energy — a neighbourhood dining room pulsing with regulars, occasional celebrities, and the aroma of slow-cooked French perfection drifting out from the open kitchen.

EAT >

The menu is an ode to bistronomy, balancing the richness of Reymond’s French roots with the vibrancy of local produce. The rotisserie is centre stage here: golden chicken with tarragon jus, wood-fired pork shoulder, and, on lucky nights, roasted duck lavished in its own fat.

Starters flirt with tradition — think calamari with a lick of romesco, Burgundian gougeres (something like a delicious cheese scone but fluffy and light as a feather), chicken liver parfait and pickled vegetables, or a classic steak tartare, hand-chopped and ruby-edged.

Pasta is made daily and arrives delicate: crab spaghettini, wild mushroom risotto. Sides are simple and joyful: green beans slicked with anchovy butter, crispy potatoes, salad with a sharp mustard dressing. Southern Rangers steak béarnaise with crisp and crunchy frites is the classic, as good if not better than found in any Parisien bistro perfectly executed and so very hard to pass by.

DRINK >

The wine list walks a confident line between Old World and new, with French and Victorian bottles well chosen and approachable, and staff always ready to pour something special by the glass. Cocktails veer classic—think Sazerac, Negroni, and a perfect French 75—served at the marble bar, where locals cluster for a quick aperitif before sinking in for the main event.

The wine cellar at l’hôtel gitan is both impressive and purposeful—a quietly curated trove of local standouts and French classics, housed in temperature-controlled chambers behind frosted glass. The wine list pays homage to regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux but is never rigid, always making space for the best Yarra Valley, Gippsland and Mornington Peninsula vintages alongside Loire whites and Rhône reds. Expect to find a prized Gippsland pinot noir or a structured Côte du Rhône ready for pairing, all presented with uncluttered clarity and keen value.

The sommelier – Bader, is a cornerstone of the experience—approachable, genuine, and deeply knowledgeable about both the cellar’s treasures and emerging talents, ready to match each dish with pours that enhance and surprise. Wine service is attentive but never intrusive, and guests are frequently guided through little-known bottles with infectious enthusiasm. Notably, l’hôtel gitan has made a mark with its Les Grands Vin Wine Dinner series: seasonally themed events that celebrate France’s storied regions through paired menus and guided tastings. One night you might be in Burgundy, another in the Rhône, each event introducing rare wines, insightful commentary, and convivial energy that makes every guest feel part of an extended family.

AMBIENCE >

There’s something timeless at play here. Lights are low, the buzz is lively, and the crowd is a melting pot—South Yarra’s young creatives beside seasoned foodies, a table of friends laughing over tarte tatin. It’s the kind of place that encourages lingering—a simple coffee stretches into a Cognac, early dinners drift into midnight conversations. Service is brisk, professional and un-fussy, the mark of a team who know how to care without hovering.

VERDICT >

At l’hôtel gitan, the menu and the atmosphere are effortlessly aligned: both sophisticated and welcoming, with a sense of occasion that never tips into formality. It’s a place to celebrate, to relax, to discover a slice of Paris without ever leaving Melbourne’s heartbeat. Whether it’s a casual Tuesday or an anniversary dinner, step inside—chances are, you’ll want to come back, again and again.

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Image Credit | Almanak & L’Hôtel Gitan

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