EAT > Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld VIC (19/20)

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There are restaurants that feel like a pilgrimage—Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel is one of them. Set at the foot of the Grampians in Dunkeld, Wickens is not just a meal, but a masterclass in the art of place-driven dining. Here, the landscape is more than a backdrop: it’s the main ingredient.

AMBIENCE >

Descending into Wickens is a gentle immersion into the wild beauty of western Victoria. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the rugged silhouette of Mount Sturgeon, while the dining room’s blend of sheepskin leather, polished sandstone, and native timber is both luxe and grounded. The space is open, calm, and quietly confident—chic but never showy, with the kitchen garden just metres away and the bushland always in view.

The service is a study in balance: attentive but never intrusive, polished yet warm. The team moves with a kind of choreographed ease, guiding guests through the evening with genuine enthusiasm and deep knowledge of both food and wine.

EAT >

Wickens is all about the tasting menu—seasonal, ever-changing, and fiercely local. The kitchen draws from the hotel’s sprawling 1.2-hectare organic garden, orchards, and on-site farm, with each dish telling a story of the day’s harvest. Expect a procession of plates that celebrate the micro-seasons: tomatoes at their sun-kissed peak, wild mushrooms foraged from the forest, lamb and beef reared just down the road.

The menu is a study in restraint and invention. Canapés arrive as edible jewels—perhaps a salt fish brandade on a pea cracker, or an eggplant tartlet—each bite layered with flavour and texture. Mains might feature crayfish tartare with toasted rice and Thai spices, or a perfectly cooked cut of lamb, its richness offset by garden herbs and petals. The kitchen’s technical mastery is always in service of flavour; nothing feels forced or overwrought.

Desserts are as thoughtful as the savoury courses: a pistachio dacquoise with meadowsweet ice cream, or a rose Eton mess with caramelised white chocolate and berries. Each plate is balanced, beautiful, and deeply satisfying.

DRINK >

The wine program at Wickens is legendary. The cellar—one of the largest private collections in the southern hemisphere—offers everything from rare Bordeaux and Burgundy to local gems. Three distinct wine pairings are available, each curated to highlight the best of the cellar and the region. The sommelier’s touch is assured, and there’s a sense of celebration in every pour.

EXPERIENCE >

Dining at Wickens is an immersive, unhurried affair. The pace is deliberate, giving each course its due and allowing time to savour the view. For those seeking something truly special, the Chef’s Table offers a front-row seat to the kitchen’s quiet theatre, with Chef Robin Wickens himself guiding guests through the menu. The kitchen garden and cellar tours add another layer to the experience, connecting diners to the land and the people behind every plate.

Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld offers two distinct dining experiences, Wickens fine dining and the slightly more relaxed (but still delicious) Parker Street Project. The onsite accomodation is also excellent (but that is another story).

> “A world-class meal… A stunning procession of dishes displaying technical mastery and outstanding flavour impact; from the intricate hors d’oeuvres to the clever desserts. The quality of the produce shines, at least in part from being sourced from their own kitchen garden/farm and then quite seriously worked by a great kitchen team led by a truly innovative Chef.”

VERDICT >

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel is a destination in every sense. It’s a place where the boundary between kitchen and landscape dissolves, where every dish is a tribute to the region’s bounty and the chef’s vision. This is regional fine dining at its most assured—memorable, meaningful, and worth every kilometre of the journey.

**Score: 19/20**

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